L’Aquila may be a city of medieval streets and Renaissance fountains, but its beauty lies precisely in the fact that this is not the Italy of postcards. Although only 120kms from Rome, L’Aquila remains happily absent from Italy’s tourist map. In fact, it’s one of the most underrated Italian cities, in spite of a historic centre showcasing palaces and churches, many built from local pink and white limestone. Add its proximity to nature and the great outdoors, and its designation as the Italian Capital of Culture for 2026, and you’ll see there’s every reason to tag on a few days in L’Aquila to your next Hedonistic Hiking tour.

Founded by Frederick II, the Holy Roman Emperor and King of Sicily, in the 13th century, L’Aquila became the ‘second city’ of the Kingdom of Naples and subsequently, an important cultural and religious centre in the Abruzzo. Several theories surround its name which translates from Italian into ‘the eagle’: indeed, early coats of arms and flags featured an eagle and you’ll still see widespread use of the eagle motif. Another theory is that the name may link to ‘aqua’ (Latin for water), referencing the many local freshwater springs. Geographically, the city is set in a high valley in the Apennine Mountains, with the Gran Sasso Massif a constant companion, and was originally a waystation on the transhumance route from the Apennines in Tuscany to the plains of Puglia. Its geological position makes it highly prone to earthquakes, the most recent event being in 2009 which resulted in extensive damage. Reconstruction continues today, with some scaffolding and work zones still visible. The overall feel of L’Aquila, however, is of a vibrant university city with several sights that certainly merit a visit. The medieval city walls are still visible, as indeed are its historic gates. Here are some of the highlights.

The historic centre and Piazza del Duomo

At the heart of the historic centre, Piazza Duomo (also known as Piazza del Mercato) is a large medieval square, framed by palazzi, cafés and churches, which regularly hosts markets. Current restoration work means that you can’t go inside the Duomo at present but there is a suggestion of it possibly re-opening this year. Other buildings on the square include the domed church of Santa Maria del Suffragio which has been restored and converted into a memorial for those who died in the earthquake.

Fontana delle 99 Cannelle

L’Aquila’s most iconic monument is the medieval Fontana delle 99 Cannelle, a 99-spout fountain that extends along a late 13th century stone wall. Although, if you take the time to count them, you’ll find just 93 spouts! Each featuring a water-spouting unique ‘mascaron’, the spouts are believed to symbolize the 99 castles whose communities together founded L’Aquila in 1254.

Forte Spagnolo

The Spanish Fort, also known as the Castello Cinquecentesco dell’Aquila, is an imposing 16th century citadel, with a wide moat and huge bastions. As of December 2025, it once again houses the highly regarded Museo Nazionale d’Abruzzo (MUNDA) which was relocated for a period during reconstruction works.

MAXXI art gallery

Set in the restored baroque Palazzo Ardinghelli, the gallery is an outpost of the Zaha Hadid designed MAXXI Foundation in Rome.

Other Basilicas and Churches

Set slightly outside of the historic centre, the immense Basilica di Santa Maria di Collemaggio cathedral is one of the city’s most striking sights. With a glorious pink and white stone façade and rose windows, the Gothic building contains important frescoes, the 16th century tomb of Pope Celestine V and the first Holy Door. Two other churches are also worthy of note. The Basilica of San Bernardino’s simple façade gives way to an ornate Baroque interior with graceful chapels, a huge central dome, gilt- covered wooden ceiling and grand gold-leafed organ. The 15th century mausoleum, which houses the relics of San Bernardino of Siena, is one of the region’s most important pieces of Renaissance artwork. Largely restored after significant damage, the 14th century Church of San Silvestro is a beautiful Gothic church with a rose window, bell tower and remnants of frescoes on the walls and ceilings.

Day trips from L’Aquila

L’Aquila province is home to some of Italy’s most awe-inspiring mountain scenery – expect alpine meadows, dramatic cliffs and glacial valleys. Nature trails, canyons, forests and high plateaus are all easily accessible from the city – the Gran Sasso nature reserve is just 25 minutes by car from L’Aquila. Other national parks within a short drive of the city include the Monti della Laga National Park, the Majella National Park with its 500km of hiking trails and cave paintings, and the Sirente-Velino Regional Park. You may also want to visit Rocca Calascio, one of Italy’s highest medieval fortresses, or one or two of the region’s exceptionally beautiful towns and villages, such as Sulmona (1 hour by train). Read more in our regional guide to the Abruzzo.

What to eat in L’Aquila

Largely influenced by its location and local traditions, ‘cucina povera’ dominates L’Aquila’s food scene. Artisanal foods, such as handmade cheeses and local reared meat, pasta, fresh seasonal vegetables and fruit (walnuts, figs and pomegranates) feature on menus and in restaurants. Traditional dishes include lamb – either ‘arrosticini’ skewers of lamb roasted over open coals or slow cooked lamb with herbs and vegetables. Traditional pasta includes macaroni ‘alla chitarra’, often accompanied by a rich ragù, or with a butter or cream sauce and a hint of saffron. The locally grown DOP saffron appears in a range of pasta and meat dishes. Most popular local wines include the widely consumed red Montepulciano d’Abruzzo which goes well with lamb dishes and pasta with meat sauces, and the white Trebbiano d’Abruzzo.

L’Aquila in literature

If you’re interested in exploring L’Aquila and the Abruzzo in fiction, contemporary novelist Donatella di Pietrantonio has set several of her highly regarded novels in the Abruzzo, where she grew up. Her 2014 book, Bella Mia (My Beautiful), set in L’Aquila, is a thought-provoking testament to family grief and survival following the 2009 earthquake. See our walking holiday reading list for more suggestions on novels set in the Abruzzo.

Getting to L’Aquila

Pescara (60km from L’Aquila) is the Abruzzo’s small regional airport, with a limited number of flights. You can also fly directly to Rome and transfer to L’Aquila by train (2-3 hours) from Roma Termini station. If you’re travelling by train from another major Italian city, Rome is the main transit hub. In some cases, you may find that travelling by bus is a faster option– for example, direct bus services such as Itabus connect Naples to L’Aquila in around 3 hours.

Why visit L’Aquila?

We love exploring smaller Italian cities that remain firmly off the tourist trail, and L’Aquila’s spectacular natural setting further enhances its appeal. Visiting any city during the staging of a festival or pageant is always a great way to get a feel for that place and its people, and L’Aquila regularly hosts annual events such as the historical-religious Perdonanza and a medieval jousting tournament. However, with over 300 cultural events organised in 2026 as part of L’Aquila’s Capital of Culture programme, this is the perfect time to get ahead of the curve and slot L’Aquila into your Italy itinerary.

More information from the Abruzzo tourist board.

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Understated, scruffy in places and largely overlooked by tourists, Genoa remains slightly under the radar compared with many of Italy’s cities but this only adds to its appeal. As part of the Milan-Turin-Genoa industrial triangle, it’s a living working city – but with the added charm of the sea and a fascinating maritime history.

Why visit Genoa?

You won’t find the big attractions of some Italian cities but there’s easily enough to fill a few days and the city is certainly appealing for true Italophiles seeking a more authentic experience. The Genoese are extremely warm and welcoming and known for their straightforwardness: don’t be misled by the city’s nickname of La Superba (the Proud One) which refers to the city’s glorious past as a formidable rival to Venice.

The main attractions of Genoa’s historic centre

The city’s extensive medieval historic centre, a maze of alleys and hidden squares, is characterised by strikingly elegant residences and palazzi that date back to the 14th century when they were home to the city’s wealthy merchant and banking families. Top sights include:

The Palazzi dei Rolli (UNESCO): several of these lavish 16th and 17th century palaces are set on the Via Garibaldi (or Via Strada Nuova).

The Duomo of San Lorenzo, with its 14th century Gothic façade and ceiling frescoes.

Porto Antico: Genoa’s historic port offers a kaleidoscope of modern and ancient sights, with skyscrapers and elevated flyovers framing frescoed palazzi that look out over the waterfront.

Prepare to get lost in the ‘caruggi’, the maze of narrow lanes and alleyways where boutiques, food shops and cafes inhabit Renaissance palazzos.

Galata Museo del Mare. Visit the maritime museum to explore Genoa’s maritime history and the Aquarium.

Renzo Piano’s Biosphere, a glass and steel sphere housing a tropical garden, and panoramic lift, form part of the waterfront scene.

Other attractions include the Ducal Palace (now a cultural space), the Royal Palace, the Villa del Principe and Christopher Columbus’ House.

Genoa’s heady highlights

Take time to explore beyond the city centre. The city extends high up a hillside punctuated by steep staircases and alleyways that weave their way through towering palazzi and apartment buildings. This is where you’ll find some of the best bits of Genoa, viewpoints where you can gaze over the rooftops and really get to appreciate the truly multi-faceted nature of the city and port. Fortunately, several lifts and funiculars are available if you don’t fancy the climb.

Castello d’Albertis – this must-see historical residence opens the doors on the life and travels of Captain Enrico Alberto d’Albertis, a renowned navigator, writer and collector. The castle and its views are extraordinary, the collections even more so.

For the best views of Genoa, climb the steep path – or take the art nouveau public lift at Piazza Portello – to the Spianata Castelletto. Go at sunset and enjoy an Aperol Spritz at one of the bars as the sun drops over the city’s rooftops.

Eating and drinking in Genoa

Genoese cuisine is a wonderful blend of ingredients from the land and sea. Make your first stop the MOG, the Mercato Orientale Genova where you’ll find a main floor packed with traditional market stalls selling everyday local produce. The upper floor, a modern dining area with international and traditional Ligurian food stands, is a good place for a lunch stop.

What to order

Pesto, of course, is king, often served with trofie and potatoes. Other pasta dishes include pansoti, a triangular shaped pasta parcel, usually served with a walnut sauce; and lasagne which, unique to Genoa, often includes pesto rather than a meat-based layer.

Focaccia alla Genoese, plain or with onion, cheese or rosemary, is served at restaurants and bakeries. Foccaccia al formaggio (IGP), where a layer of creamy Stracchino cheese oozes out from between thin layers of focaccia, originates from nearby Recco.

Subtly flavoured vegetable tarts, filled with chard, onion and artichoke, and farinata a thin, crispy pancake made from chickpea flour, are local street foods.

Fish and seafood are popular, including fried squid and anchovies.

Enjoy a slice of crostata with your morning coffee. Alternatively, Pandolce is the Genoese equivalent of panettone, but happily, available all year round!

Top local white wines include Vermentino which goes beautifully with seafood dishes and pesto, and Pigato. Top red wines include Ormeasco (the Ligurian name for Dolcetto) and Rossese di Dolceacqua.

Top tip: for a traditional – even if pricier than the norm – coffee experience, stroll up from the main Piazza Ferrari to Piazza Corvetto to drool at the window displays at Caffè Mangini, established in 1876, and enjoy a cappuccino and cornetto as the world rushes by. In keeping with its traditional outlook, the café accepts cash only.

Hiking and outdoor activities around Genoa

The hills around Genoa are surrounded by several trails linking a series of forts – Sperone, Puin, and Diamante – some better preserved than others. Trails range from about 10-15km.

For a more leisurely stroll, hop on a train from Brignole station to Genova Nervi. A paved seafront promenade, the Passeggiata Anita Garibaldi, offers spectacular sea views and access to the Nervi parks and art museums. Once you reach the end of the promenade, turn up to the road and continue on to the delightful village of Bogliasco (around 2.5km).

Choose from some wonderful hikes from the villages of Chiavari, Sestri Levante and Camogli where the ancient path to San Rocco leads to a number of trails within the Portofino National Park. Self-guided walking is also available in the Cinque Terre.

Getting to and travelling around Genoa

Genoa is well connected with most main Italian cities by Trenitalia. The fastest train journey from Milan and Turin is 1 hr 35 mins, from Rome, 4 hrs 30 mins, and from Florence, 2 hrs and 30 mins. The two main stations in Genoa are Piazza Principle and Brignole.

For those travelling by air, Genoa Cristoforo Colombo is the only major airport in the city and a quick 15-20 minute transfer to the city centre by taxi. Visitors from the UK can travel directly with Ryanair from London Stansted. Flights from the US and Australia require one or more layovers although it is possible to fly to Milan and take a train to Genoa.

Travelling in and around Genoa is easy by public transport (bus, metro, lifts) or on foot. The train network along the coast is easy to use and provides wonderful views. We don’t recommend driving in Genoa, not least because of the shortage of public parking.

A short stay in Genoa can easily be added to any of the following tours:

Parma, Tuscany and the Ligurian Sea (ends in Pisa)

Lucca, Volterra and the Island of Elba (ends in Pisa)

The Jewels of Piedmont (starts/ends in Turin)

France and the Maritime Alps (ends in Turin)

Best of the Italian Alps (starts/ends in Turin).

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About Matera

Matera is arguably the most remarkable town in Southern Italy. Its famous “sassi” are troglodyte cave dwellings, which have been carved out of the rock ravine in tiers over centuries of human occupation. The caves were home to over half the population of the town right up until the 1950s, and they are believed to have been inhabited since the 8th century BC.  It is the final stop on our Southern Italy hike and is a true highlight of the tour.

Where is Matera?

Matera is in the region of Basilicata in the southern part of the Italian peninsula.  The region’s geography has something “other worldly” about it, with majestic mountains, bare clay hills and dark forested valleys. Less fertile than the rest of the country however, it became known as the landscape of poverty.  This southern region suffered huge emigration and a subsequent lack of investment, giving it a very different feel to northern Italy. But Basilicata is wild, dramatic and sparsely populated and a wonderful escape from the busy tourist hot spots further north.  It also has two coast lines, with wonderful beaches on the Mediterranean and Ionian seas.

History of Matera

Populated for thousands of years, the caves would have been home to people alongside their animals.  In the middle ages, there was an ingenious system of canals regulating the flow of water in and out of the grottoes.  However later, as the population grew to unsustainable numbers, the dwellings became dangerously over-crowded and diseases such as malaria were rife.  In the late 1950s some 15,000 residents were compulsorily relocated to government housing schemes, and the reports of living conditions in the town were a great scandal across Italy. Stories circulated that children would stop strangers in the street and ask not for money but for quinine.  Ironically the town’s history of misery means that today more people than ever are keen to visit. In 1993 the Sassi became a Unesco World Heritage site and many of the caves have been gradually redeveloped to house craft workshops, restaurants and even hotel accommodation.  The city of Matera, with its extraordinary atmosphere, has featured in a number of well-known films, including The Passion of Christ and No Time to Die, and in 2019 it was awarded the title of European Capital of Culture.

Things to do in Matera

Sassi di Matera

Sassi Caveoso and Sassi Barisano: These are the two main districts of ancient cave dwellings. Explore the winding streets, stone houses, and churches carved into the rock. This is the very heart of Matera’s charm and history.

Casa Grotta di Vico Solitario

This restored cave dwelling gives a glimpse into what life was like for the inhabitants of Matera before they were relocated in the 1950s.  It houses traditional tools and furniture.

Churches of the Rupestrian Complex

Santa Maria de Idris: A rock-hewn church with stunning frescoes, located on top of a rock that offers panoramic views of the city.
San Pietro Barisano: The largest rupestrian church in Matera, with a fascinating underground complex of niches.
Santa Lucia alle Malve: Another rock church with well-preserved frescoes, and the first female monastic settlement in the town.

Palombaro Lungo

An enormous underground cistern beneath Piazza Vittorio Veneto, once used to collect rainwater for the city. It’s an impressive feat of ancient engineering and can be explored through guided tours.

MUSMA (Museum of Contemporary Sculpture)

Located in the Palazzo Pomarici, this museum combines ancient and modern art, displaying contemporary sculptures within the unique cave-like spaces.

Casa Noha

A multimedia museum that tells the story of Matera’s history, from prehistoric times to the modern day. It’s an excellent way to contextualize the significance of what you’re seeing in the city.

Make sure to schedule a night-time stroll around Matera. The caves and tiny streets are well-lit and the illuminations make the whole city glow like a miniature nativity scene.

What to eat and drink in Matera

Don’t miss out on trying local specialties like “crapiata”, a traditional soup made with grains and beans and wonderful olive oil.  “Peperoni cruschi”, air dried peppers fried for only a few seconds in olive oil to make them crispy are a local favourite, and “pane di Matera” which is made from 100% milled semolina grain, is the celebrated local bread.  Basilicata is also famous for its spicy pork sausage, a wide ribbon pasta known as “lagane” and delicately flavoured white beans.  Many restaurants in the Sassi offer unique dining experiences within their cave settings.  Aglianico is the chief red grape of Basilicata . It’s origins are a little unclear but the name probably derives from the word “Hellenic” or Greek, as this part of Southern Italy was colonised by the Greeks before the rise of the Roman empire.  The grape buds early and ripens late and the harvest often does not take place until the end of October into the middle of November. It produces a full-bodied red wine with musky berry flavours and firm tannins and it has good aging potential too.

Getting to Matera

The nearest airport for Matera is Bari, although you could consider flying to Brindisi or Naples.  There are good bus shuttle services between Bari and Matera.  Matera Centrale train station has lines connecting to Bari, Naples and Rome and it is about a ten minute walk from the station to the heart of the Sassi district.  If you have heavy bags there are taxis available.  Driving a hire car in the historic centre is not possible – if you are self-driving work out a plan for parking ahead of time. There are free and paid parking spaces available. This website has useful information https://www.materaturismo.it/en/.

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Thanks to the ruling Estense dynasty, Ferrara experienced a golden age in literature, politics, gastronomy and the arts which shaped the city we see today. But the city’s appeal lies as much in its vibrant atmosphere. Streets and piazzas are lively and energetic without the crowds of the busier Italian cities, and tourists (mainly Italian) are relatively few in number. From early evening, the main piazzas, pavement cafes and restaurants are humming with locals enjoying aperitivi and dinner. 

Ferrara highlights

Castello Estense

Ferrara’s magnificent Estense Castle is exactly what you’d imagine a medieval castle to be, complete with moats, towers, drawbridges and dungeons. First constructed by Niccolò d’Este as a fortress, the imposing castle was adapted over the years and in time, became the residence of the Este family, embellished with roof terraces, four splendid towers and grand apartments. Today it still dominates the city and also provides some great views over the rooftops from the Torre dei Leoni.

Ferrara’s ‘Delizie’

Ferrara’s ‘delizie’ were country houses, villas, palaces or castles intended by the Este dynasty to be places in which to spend ‘delight-filled leisure time’.  The Palazzo dei Diamanti, designed by Biagio Rossetti, belonged to Sigismondo d’Este, the Duke’s brother. Perhaps best known for its magnificent façade, today it is also home to the National Picture Gallery and the Gallery of Modern and Contemporary Art. The Palazzo Schifanoia was another ‘delizia’.  Originally built in the late 14th century and later expanded under Borso d’Este, the building houses the Salone dei Mesi (Room of the Months), one of Ferrara’s most famous frescoes.

The Duomo

Ferrara’s 12th century extraordinarily beautiful cathedral combines Romanesque and Gothic styles. Set alongside the imposing pink and white marble Renaissance campanile, the Duomo’s Loggia of the Merchants has been occupied by shops since medieval times.

Via delle Volte 

Ferrara’s historic centre is a warren of narrow, cobblestone streets. Of particular note is Via delle Volte which is framed by vaulted buildings which linked warehouses with homes.

National Holocaust Museum

With a long history of active Judaism, particularly during the Este reign in the 15th and 16th century, Ferrara was chosen as the location for Italy’s National Holocaust Museum (MEIS – Museo Nazionale dell’Ebraismo Italiano e della Shoah) which opened in in the city’s former prison in 2017. Ferrara’s Jewish ghetto lies in the heart of the city’s historic centre, in and around Via Mazzini.

Ferrara’s City Walls

Extending over a lengthy 9km, Ferrara’s city walls are amongst the most impressive in Italy, surpassed only by those in Lucca. Work up an appetite for a delicious dinner by walking the length of the city walls, past defensive towers, gates and gardens, or pick up a bike to cycle the route.

Eating and drinking in Ferrara

Don’t be surprised to find mortadella from Bologna, Parma ham, parmesan and Modican balsamic vinegar in shops and restaurants – Ferrara is only a short drive from each of these cities. But Ferrara also has its own very distinctive dishes and fiercely protected foodstuffs, with typical dishes combining sweet and savoury flavours.

What to order

Cappellacci alla zucca, handmade pasta parcels with a pumpkin filling, is the city’s number one pasta dish. Alternatively, try a traditional ‘Pasticcio di Maccheroni’, a kind of macaroni pie, with macaroni combined with meat sauce, bechamel, mushrooms, truffle and nutmeg, encased in shortcrust pastry.

A traditional main course is ‘salama di sugo’, a mixture of minced pork flavoured with red wine and spices, often served with mashed potato.  And for dessert, chocolate ‘tenerina’. This soft cake, with a thin, crunchy outside crust, is eaten throughout Emilia Romagna but comes from Ferrara.  Also available, naturally, as an ice-cream flavour in all good gelaterie!  Winegrowing in Emilia Romagna is dominated by sparkling red Lambrusco but the region also produces red wines such as Sangiovese di Romagna DOC from Sangiovese grapes. 

What is Ferrara best known for?

The Este dynasty

This iconic family ruled Ferrara from the 13th to the 16th century. The last duke of Ferrara, Alfonso II, died childless in 1597 bringing the dynasty to an end. During their period of rule, they transformed Ferrara into an intellectual and cultural centre, establishing the first university, patronising artists such as Piero della Francesca and Andrea Mantegna.

Girolamo Savonarola

Other famous figures from Ferrara include Girolamo Savonarola, a Dominican friar who preached against the moral corruption amongst the clergy and the Medici family. His criticism of the Roman Catholic Church resulted in his execution in 1498.

Literature in Ferrara

The city is closely associated with the poetry of Ludovico Ariosto who was born in Ferrara, and Torquato Tasso who spent many years in the court of Duke Alfonso II. Ferrara was also home to the prominent Italian novelist and poet, Giorgio Bassani, who set all his novels in the city, including his best known, ‘The Garden of the Finzi Continis’.  More recently, British novelist Maggie O’Farrell conjured up an evocative image of Ferrara, the Este court and the Este ‘delizie’, the country villas owned by the Este dynasty, in her novel ‘The Marriage Portrait’.

The Palio in Ferrara

Ferrara is home to one of the oldest Palios in the world, with preparations, blessings, flag bearing practice sessions and processions starting 4 weeks before the event. The Palio takes place in the Piazza Ariostea on the last Sunday of May. 

Getting to Ferrara

A short stay of around 2 days in the city is an excellent add-on at the beginning or end of our tours of Northern Tuscany and Ravenna, and Parma Tuscany and the Ligurian Sea.

If you’re travelling from overseas, Bologna airport is the closest to Ferrara. From there, a very efficient shuttle transfers you to Bologna Centrale train station. Trains from Bologna Centrale to Ferrara run every half hour and take around 30 minutes. Ferrara is well connected with most Italian cities.  For all train information visit www.trenitalia.com which has an English version.

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The authorities in Venice have officially enforced the entry fee, also known as the Venice Access Fee, for day visitors sightseeing in the ancient City of Canals during 29 designated dates in the year. The initiative aims to strike a balance between preserving the daily life of Venice residents and providing an exceptional experience for visitors.

This Access Fee initiative seeks to discourage daily tourism during peak periods. The €5 per day fee, applicable only to the historical parts of the city, ensures sustainability for both residents and tourists. The system issues a QR code upon payment, streamlining the experience for visitors while contributing to the responsible management of Venice’s unique charm. The fee is applicable on specific days from 25th April to 5th May and on weekends in May, June, and July, from 8:30 am to 4 pm, excluding access to the islands.

To find out more information if you plan to be in Venice this year visit the dedicated website. 

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Why visit Montepulciano?

One of Tuscany’s larger medieval hilltop towns, Montepulciano’s architecture displays multiple echoes of Florence, but while equally refined, the town’s overall atmosphere is less frenetic. The town dates back to the 4th century BC, although the existing walled town was built around the 14th century AD.

The surrounding countryside is another good reason for visiting. Set on a chalky hilltop on a ridge that divides the Val D’Orcia from the Val di Chiana, the town is surrounded by hills, fields, and fertile vineyards. Not surprisingly, food and wine are a highlight, with the town best known for its Vino Nobile red wine.  Our tour here runs in May when the landscape is a glorious, vibrant green.

Top things to see in Montepulciano

Wander leisurely through the streets to really absorb the atmosphere. Enter the long, narrow town via Porta al Prato at the north end, and climb uphill along the town’s main road, Il Corso. The street’s name changes as you proceed past the late Renaissance Palazzo Avignonesi and Palazzo Cocconi, ultimately leading to Piazza Grande, the centre of town. Take time too to veer off down side streets, past boutique shop windows and wine cellars, to enjoy the view.

Torre di Pulcinella

One of the first sights is the Torre di Pulcinella, opposite the church of Sant’Agostino. The medieval tower is topped by the town clock and the unlikely statue of Pulcinella (or Punch of ’Punch and Judy’ fame), a traditional ‘commedia dell’arte’ figure which was apparently brought to the town by a bishop of Neapolitan origins.

Piazza Grande

The main Piazza Grande is home to some of the town’s most important buildings and grand façades, including the Palazzo Comunale, the Duomo, the Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo and the historic Palazzo Contucci. Set at the highest point of town, this is also the place to catch up on cultural events, summer festivals and open-air concerts under starry skies. The square has also been used as a film set on several occasions, including in Under the Tuscan Sun, and in the Twilight vampire series, where Montepulciano stood in for Volterra.

The Palazzo Comunale (the Town Hall) is set on the south side of the square. Originally constructed in the 14th century, and remodelled in the 15th century by Michelozzo, the building’s Gothic-style façade and tower is reminiscent of the Palazzo Vecchio in Florence. Climb to the top of the clock tower (or take the lift) for the best views as far as Pienza and Montalcino.

The 16th century Duomo, or Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, sits opposite the Palazzo Comunale. Its façade is surprisingly simple, contrasting with a more elaborate interior that includes a huge altarpiece, the huge Assumption triptych (1401) by Taddeo di Bartolo.

Other historic buildings on the Piazza Grande include the Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo and the Contucci Palace, built by the Florentine architect Antonio di Sangallo the Elder. The palazzo has been home since the 11th century to the aristocratic Contucci family who today offer wine tastings and cellar tours.

Sangallo was also responsible for the Palazzo Nobili-Tarugi and the adjacent Pozzo dei Grifi e dei Leoni, a well bearing a gryphon and the Marzocco, representing Montepulciano and Florence respectively.

Chiesa di San Biagio

The Basilica of San Biagio is generally regarded as the town’s tour de force. Set just outside the historic centre, against a backdrop of vineyards and oak forests, the white travertine church, with its Greek cross plan and central dome, is slightly atypical of other Tuscan churches. This too is the work of Antonio da Sangallo and is said to have inspired Michelangelo’s first plans of what became St Peter’s Basilica in Rome.

Places to visit near Montepulciano

Montepulciano is a great base for exploring much of Tuscany and neighbouring Umbria. Siena, Cortona, Perugia and Arezzo are all within an hour’s drive while Volterra, San Gimignano and Florence are a little further.

Don’t miss tiny Pienza, renowned for its pecorino cheese, and Montalcino, home to Brunello di Montalcino wine. We recommend Sarteano and Chiusi for anyone interested in Etruscan history, and, to the south of Montepulciano, Chianciano Terme is known for its thermal waters.  There are also natural hot springs at nearby Bagno Vignoni which are definitely worth a visit after a day of sight seeing.

You’ll also find plenty of pleasant hiking routes, including an 8km half day walk along a cypress-lined avenue and country lanes to the walled hamlet of Montichiello.

What to eat and drink in Montepulciano

This is the heart of the world-famous area responsible for producing Nobile di Montepulciano and Brunello di Montalcino wines. Its Vino Nobile is one of Tuscany’s most esteemed wines, made from grapes grown in surrounding vineyards, with a minimum of 70% Sangiovese grapes. The wine is aged for at least 2 years, one of which must be in an oak barrel.

Unsurprisingly, the food is every bit as good as the wine. Feast on Cinta Senese prosciutto, platters of cold meat and cheese, pappardelle pasta with wild boar sauce, ‘pici’, a thick, hand-rolled spaghetti with a spicy tomato sauce, and hearty meat dishes, including bistecca alla Fiorentina from Chianina cattle.

Cultural events in Montepulciano

Montepulciano’s best-known event is the Bravìo delle Botti which, each August, sees the 8 districts of Montepulciano compete in a race to push a heavy wooden wine barrel uphill through the medieval centre to the finish line in front of the Duomo in Piazza Grande. Other events include Carnevale and an annual Easter festival, when classical music concerts are held in palazzos, churches and other sites in the town over a 2-week period. For wine-lovers, Montepulciano’s participation in the Cantine Aperte initiative is an opportunity to visit some of the superb wine cellars.

Transport and travel connections in Montepulciano

Montepulciano is easily accessible by road, rail, or air. The nearest airport is around 70km away in Perugia, Florence Peretola airport around 120km away, and Rome around 190km.

To reach Montepulciano by train, there are two options. Montepulciano station is about 15km outside town, requiring an onward 20-minute journey by bus (limited service), or a taxi transfer. Alternatively, Chiusi-Chianciano station in Chiusi is around 30 minutes from Montepulciano.

Travelling by car is probably the easier option. Choose from one of several car parks around town, including one near the fortress or just outside Porta al Prato.

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About Portoferraio

Portoferraio is the capital city of the island of Elba, in the Tuscan archipelago.  Elba is the third largest Italian island after Sicily and Sardinia.  It has rich mineral deposits and has been mined for hundreds of years for its iron ore – hence the name Portoferraio – meaning Iron Port.  We visit this attractive city on our Lucca, Volterra and Elba hiking holiday.

Where is Portoferraio?

Portoferraio sits on the north side of the island of Elba which is more or less shaped like a fish, and the town is tucked into a natural harbour known as the Gulf of Portoferraio.  As well as being the capital city, it is the ferry terminal between the island and Piombino on the Italian mainland, so the pretty harbour is the first view most people see when arriving into Elba.

History of Portoferraio

Elba has a tumultuous history, due largely to its strategic position in the Mediterranean and its natural resources.  It has been inhabited since the Paleolithic Age, and the Etruscans and Romans both came to exploit it’s extraordinary mineral wealth. During the Middle Ages the Maritime Republic of Pisa conquered the island and developed the granite quarries, and in the 16th Century Cosimo de Medici took control and began a programme to fortify the port town, wanting to give it the new name of Cosmopolis. Many remnants of these imposing city walls can still be seen in Portoferraio today, and they saved the island from many pirate raids over the centuries.  With the decline of the Medici, the island was annexed to the Kingdom of France.  Without doubt, Elba’s most famous resident was Napoleon Bonaparte, but his brief spell of exile on the island lasted only ten months, from May 3, 1814 to February 26, 1815.  In the Second World War Elba was occupied by Reich troops and suffered heavy allied attacks in attempts to destroy its iron ore production. Today, happily, most people invade Elba in the summer months for its 150 kilometres of pristine coastline, with crystal clear waters and fabulous beaches. 

Things to do in Portoferraio

The Medici Forts 

The Stella Fort and Falcone Fort dominate the highest points of the city, with views over the town down to the water.  Enter the old town from the harbour through Porta a Mare and take the Via Francesco Domenico Guerrazzi to follow the fortifications around the edge of town.

Villa dei Mulini

The home of Napoleon during his exile, the yellow Villa still holds his furnishings, books and personal items, including the flag with the 3 golden bees that he gave to the Elbans.  For real Napoleon enthusiasts his country retreat called San Martino, 6 km inland, can also be visited and houses a little art gallery.

Chiesa della Misericordia

On Salita Napoleone, this 18th-century church contains the relics of San Cristino, the patron saint of Portoferraio. Every year on May 5th, a mass is held in Napoleon’s honour.

Museo Civico Archeologico

Head for the octagonal Linguella Tower on the furthest edge of the harbour to see Etruscan and Roman finds and remains of a Roman villa. 

Acqua dell’Elba 

Spend some time shopping at Elba’s perfumer.  They have many shops around the island and create fragrances based on Elba’s scents and colours, from deep blue to turquoise. The business does a lot to sponsor the arts and the environment in Elba.

What to eat and drink in Portoferraio

The horse-shoe shaped harbour is lined with cafes, bars and restaurants and there are many to choose from inside the Porta a Mare too.  Elba’s dishes are largely based on fish and seafood, and pasta is often served with palamita – a local blue fish which is related to the tuna family.  Gurguglione is a mixture of stewed peppers and aubergines and other vegetables, which was a popular dish in the past for miners and farmers. The forested interior of the island provides excellent chestnuts and mushrooms in autumn months and there are wonderful local honeys reflecting the flavours of eucalyptus, chestnut and rosemary to name a few.  A local bread known as Schiaccia Briaca (drunken bread) is a kind of sweet flat bread made with red wine in the dough and topped with pine nuts, raisins and dried fruit.

Perhaps Elba’s best-known red grape is Aleatico, which is often used to make velvety dessert wines, and white grapes widely grown are Ansonica, Vermentino and Trebbiano Toscano.

Getting to Portoferraio

Ferries cross back and forth all day between Portoferraio and Piombino on the Tuscan coast. The crossing time takes around an hour. There is a small airline called Silver Air which flies between Elba and Pisa or Florence, but the airport is on the south side of the island, nearer to Marina di Campo.

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Raphael was born Raffaello Sanzio in 1483 in the city of Urbino, a cultural and artistic hothouse at the end of the 15th century.  His father was employed there as a painter in the court of the Duke of Montefeltro, and taught his young son basic painting techniques. His father died when he was only 11 years old but his prodigious talent had already been noticed. He was invited by master painter Pietro Perugino to become his apprentice and during these years he began to develop his own unique style.  

In 1504 he moved to Florence in Tuscany and was profoundly influenced by the work he saw there of, amongst others, Leonardo and Michelangelo. By closely studying the details of their work, Raphael developed in his series of Madonnas an even more intricate and expressive personal style than in his earlier paintings. 

In 1508 Raphael was summoned to Rome by Pope Julius II and tasked with completing a fresco cycle in the Vatican’s Stanza della Segnatura. This work, including the famous School of Athens fresco, was to become one of the most highly-regarded compositions of the Italian High Renaissance.  The Pope was so delighted with his painting that he commissioned Raphael to decorate further rooms, the Stanza di Eliodoro and the Stanza dell’Incendio del Borgo among them.   

He was not just a prolific painter, but also a gifted architect.  In 1514 Pope Leo X appointed Raphael as his chief architect following the death of Donato Bramante. He designed not only religious buildings, including revisions of St Peter’s Basilica, but worked on villas for private patrons such as Agostino Chigi, the wealthy Sienese papal banker.  In 1515 he was given the role of Surveyor of the city of Rome, charged with preserving Roman antiquities.  He also designed the cartoons (full-size preparatory designs) for ten monumental tapestries to be hung on the lower walls of the Sistine Chapel, a commission which demonstrated Raphael’s ability to work across different media.

Raphael’s death in 1520, on the day of his 37th birthday, was sudden and unexpected. Some attribute his untimely death to his hedonistic lifestyle but there is no doubt that his loss sent shockwaves through Italy and was keenly felt by all knew him and all who revered his work. His funeral mass was held in the Vatican, and his unfinished commission “The Transfiguration” was placed on his coffin stand.  As was his wish, Raphael’s body was buried in the Pantheon, the monument of ancient Rome that he most admired.

Giorgio Vasari, the famous 16th century biographer of the celebrated artists of his time had this to say about Raphael:  “With wonderful indulgence and generosity heaven sometimes showers upon a single person from its rich and inexhaustible treasures all the favours and precious gifts that are usually shared, over the years, among a great many people.”

Whilst the Scuderie del Quirinale was closed to the public, the gallery made an excellent short film, exploring the rooms of the exhibition, which you can view here on YouTube.  Raphael’s paintings are exhibited in many of the most famous museums in Italy, France, Spain and the UK, and some of his works are also displayed in the National Gallery of Art in Washington and the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.

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Torre del Moro

Start with the best viewpoint in town. Standing at the centre of town, the 47m. high Torre del Moro is Orvieto’s highest point, providing spectacular 360° views from its terrace across the curved terracotta roof tiles and the Umbrian countryside. 

Going underground 

The underground views are as dramatic as the vistas over the town. In fact Orvieto sits above an underground network of over 1200 man-made caves, wells and tunnels, some dating back to the Etruscans. Visit Pozzo della Cava, which comprises a labyrinth of underground passages around an antique well, or St Patrick’s Well. At the latter, two spiral staircases of 248 steps, just wide enough for pack animals to descend and carry water back up, take you 54m underground. 

Duomo

Back on ground level, head straight for the magnificent façade of the Duomo, with its elaborate carvings and mosaics. The interior is fairly stark: once you’re inside, it’s actually the Cappella di San Brizio with its frescoes of the Day of Judgement and Life after Death by Luca Signorelli that mainly draws the crowds. Continue on to the medieval Palazzi Papali behind the Duomo.

Food and wine

Take a break from potential cultural overload with a little foray into Orvieto’s gastronomic scene. Orvieto produces Umbria’s best-known white wine and is one of the main centres of the Slow Food movement. Dip into a wine bar for a glass of Orvieto Classico or browse the fine food shops selling wild boar hams and salami, pasta, truffles and olive oil.

Etruscan necropolis

Find out more about the Etruscan people who inhabited Orvieto for centuries by visiting the ‘Crocifisso del Tufo’ necropolis located on the northern side of the cliff face, just below the tufa cliff. Some of the items from the graves are now housed in the archaeological museum in town.

Fortezza dell’Albornoz 

Close to the Piazza Cahen, on the edge of Orvieto, the impressive Fortezza dell’Albornoz was constructed in the 1350’s by the Spanish Cardinal Albornoz, under the order of Pope Innocent VI. Destroyed in 1395, the existing fortress was rebuilt during the mid-15th century.  Today the castle and its grounds are open to the public, providing excellent views across the countryside.

Our Etruscan Trails in Central Italy tour takes us to stay in Orvieto, where we have a day to explore all that this remarkable town has to offer.  It might be worth investing in Orvieto’s Carta Unica for €20 per person, as this then gives entry to 11 of the town’s most important sites.

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The clay hills around Volterra give the area a different landscape to other parts of Tuscany.  There are less olives and vines here but the soil is good for pasture and wheat, giving way to long-reaching views of gently rolling hills.  Approaching Volterra by road you cannot miss the unusual sculptures of Mauro Staccioli, whose stunning metal circles and elipses bring together art and the natural world.

Alabaster remains today an important industry for Volterra. The Etruscans used it for their funeral urns but the town is still full of studios turning the easily-worked mineral into lamps, vases and figurines and there are many places to watch the artists at work and buy their artefacts.

For the culture vulture there are many highlights. The Museo Etrusco Guarnacci displays over 600 cinerary urns, sculpted by the Etruscans, and The Pinacoteca has a fine collection of 13th century Sienese painting, along with important works by Ghirlandaio, Luca Signorelli and Rosso Fiorentino. From Viale Francesco Ferrucci you can see the remains of the Roman theatre. A few marble slabs and columns have survived and, behind the theatre, ruins of Roman baths have been excavated.

The Palazzo dei Priori (Town Hall) dates back to 1208 and is said to be oldest such building in Tuscany and the model for the Palazzo Vecchio in Florence.  In Piazza dei Priori look out for the Porcellino Tower, taking its name from the little sculpted pig near the base which is only just visible today. Backing on to this square is the Piazza del Duomo with the Cathedral and octagonal Baptistry which has striped marble facing on just one side. Inside the cathedral some of the windows are made with very thin slices of the local alabaster. Just next to the Piazza del Duomo is the Via Porta all’Arco and the Etruscan Arch which is one of the most important reminders of the Etruscan presence here.

Whenever we are in Volterra we enjoy a spot of wine tasting with local wine merchants Massimo and Patrizia. Their Enoteca Scali on Via Guarnacci is full of interesting bottles from Tuscany and all around Italy as well as local cheeses, oils, vinegars and pastas. Volterra also has a good selection of restaurants and pizzerias, many of which specialise in wild boar recipes or traditional pigeon and rabbit dishes. Each year in May the town hosts a vintage racing-car festival, known as the Saline-Volterra, which brings together motor enthusiasts from all over Italy.

There is no train service to Volterra and so it is difficult to get there without a car. But this might have been its saviour too because it is not as busy as many other Tuscan hill-top towns and retains its medieval charm. Our Lucca, Volterra and Elba tour, which stays two nights in Volterra, is scheduled to run again in 2019 from May 10th to 18th.

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