Florence
Florence is the regional capital of Tuscany and an absolute feast for the senses. It is the home of the Renaissance and one of Italy’s finest art collections. But alongside the history, art and architecture, Florence is a crowded busy city full of lively bars and restaurants, with myriad shopping opportunities from designer stores to local markets.
Highlights
The Uffizi
One the most famous in Europe, this art collection comprises 1,555 pieces spanning ancient Greek sculpture, Renaissance masters, and on up to 18th century Baroque painting. A visit here it is definitely worth booking in advance. The English-speaking telephone booking centre (+39 055 294883) is open from Monday to Friday from 8.30 to 18.30 and on Saturdays from 8.30 to 12.30. There is a booking fee and tickets can be collected and paid for on the day of the visit.
Galleria dell’Accademia
This is home to Michelangelo’s genuine statue of David, carved from one block of marble when the artist was just 29. There are two copies of the statue on the streets of Florence but if you want to see the real thing, make an advance booking to avoid the queues. (+39 055 294883)
Piazza del Duomo
One the most iconic Cathedrals in the whole of Italy, Florence’s Duomo is instantly recognisable from its striped marble facade, vast red dome and soaring campanile or bell-tower. It’s breathtaking. To see the stunning original bronze doors of the Baptistry, visit the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo.
Ponte Vecchio
Florence’s most famous bridge across the River Arno, which houses hundreds of jewellery stalls, from which views of the city and its river can be enjoyed at all times of the day, especially the sunset.
For €85 you can buy the Firenze Card which, in a period of 72 hours from the first time you use it, allows you access to all major museums, gardens and exhibitions without the need to queue or book ahead. It can also be used on buses and trams – all you need to do is swipe the card as you embark. It can be purchased on-line or from selected stores around the city. It is also available as an App.
Local Guide
In fact, there is so much to see and do in Florence that it can be overwhelming with only a short amount of time. For an authentic and entertaining insight into the city we highly recommend a private guided tour with Freya Middleton. Her in-depth knowledge, enthusiasm and passion for the city will make it an unforgettable experience. Contact Freya for her brochure and tour menu.
Where to stay
Some of the hotels listed below are known to Hedonistic Hiking, and others are recommendations from people who have extended their walking tour in Italy in Florence.
Hotel Rosso 23
This small dynamic, energetic, contemporary hotel, with its fascinating inner court, is located in a noble building at number 23 Piazza Santa Maria Novella. The Rosso 23, fully decorated in red and grey tones, is a high quality 3-star hotel with 42 rooms.
Grand Hotel Minerva
An excellent four star hotel just 3 minutes walk from the Santa Maria Novella station in the heart of Florence. It also has a pool on the 5th floor with a panoramic view of the city.
Hotel L’Orologio
Also situated close to the Santa Maria Novella station, this boutique hotel is designed around the theme of vintage clocks and wrist-watches. Sounds unusual but stylish results! We stayed here this year and loved it!
Dei Mori Bed & Breakfast
Another of our favourite places in the heart of the historical centre, just five minutes from the Duomo and the Piazza Signoria. The five double rooms look onto an internal courtyard and there is a small terrace where guests can enjoy breakfast. Friendly and welcoming and English is spoken.
Casa Del Garbo
Luxurious B&B centrally located in the Piazza Signoria. Four beautifully furnished and well-appointed rooms.
Hotel Davanzati
Run by three generations of the same family this hotel is very central and each evening they serve complimentary drinks and nibbles between 6.30 pm and 7.30 pm. There are 26 steps up to the lobby but elevators once you are inside!
Antiche Dimore Fiorentine
A collection of Residences across the city offering B&B but many other services too such as an honesty bar, free WiFi, laundry and museum bookings.
Hotel Albani
This hotel is located on a quiet street within walking distance of Santa Maria Novella train station. Refined and atmospheric.
La Locandiera
Just a short walk from Santa Maria Novella station this B&B has five comfortable rooms, very helpful English speaking staff, free WiFi and breakfast served in the rooms.
Where to eat
€€ Ristorante del Fagioli
Near to Santa Croce. The restaurant serves typical Tuscan food and excellent grilled meats. Closed Saturday and Sunday. Corso Tintori 47 Tel +39 055 244285
€€ Trattoria 4 Leoni
Simple Tuscan cuisine. Piazza della Passera – Via Vellutini 1/r. Tel +39 055 218562. Near the Pitti Palace.
€€ I Due G
This trattoria is very convenient for the station Santa Maria Novella and serves great grilled meats. Via B Cennini. Closed Sunday. Tel + 39 055 218623.
€€Il Vivandiere – Cantina Vinicola
Rustic hangout with atmospheric setting serving seasonal Tuscan tapas and great salads. Via Torta 6, Tel +39 055 2001222
€€ Ristorante Accademia
Very reasonably priced specialising in home-made pasta dishes, in Piazza San Marco.
Tel +39 055 217 343
€€ Cucina Torcicoda
Here there is something for everyone: a pizzeria with wood-fired oven, a gourmet restaurant, an osteria with traditional dishes, an ice-cream parlour and a shop! It is close to Santa Croce at Via Torta 5. Tel +39 055 265 4329
€ Rifrullo
Bar/restaurant on the Oltrarno near the porta San Niccolò. Good for lunch or an aperitif before dinner. Tables outside. Tel +39 055 2342621.
€ Sabatino
Very good value for money, this trattoria offers hearty Tuscan home cooking. Across the river close to the bridge Ponte Amerigo Vespucci. Closed Saturday and Sunday. Via Pisana 2r Tel +39 055 225 955
€ Trattoria Mario
Cosy and busy and near to the Central Market. Delicious beef, rabbit and pastas.
Via Rosina 2r Tel +39 055 218550
€ Cantinetta dei Verrazzano
A wonderful place for coffee, wine, focaccia and fresh bread. Full of character.
Via dei Tavolini 18-20 Tel +39 055 268590
€€Il Santo Bevitore
Refined Tuscan dishes in a traditional vaulted venue with bare brick, wood beams & wine shelves.
Via Santo Spirito, 64r Tel +39 055 211264
€€Enoteca Pitti Gola and Cantina
An extensive cellar of Tuscan wines paired with regional dishes on a terrace opposite Palazzo Pitti.
Piazza de’ Pitti, 16 Tel +39 055 212704
€ Formaggioteca Terroir
Here you will find a fabulous curated selection of Italian and French cheeses, paired with wines chosen with the same passion.
Via dei Renai 19 Tel +39 055 215901
€€€Osteria dell Enoteca
A refined Tuscan menu prepared with fresh, local ingredients by Chef Nicola Chiappi, paired to a carefully curated wine selection. Closed Tuesdays.
Via Romana 70r Tel +39 055 2286018
€ La Pizza di Giotto
High quality Neapolitan style pizzas close to the Piazza Santa Maria Novella and train station.
Via Panzani, 57 Tel +39 055212287
€€Coquinarius
A stone’s throw from the Piazza del Duomo, Coquinarius is a cosy bistro, restaurant and wine shop which has been running since 1999.
Via dell’Oche, 11R Tel +39 055 230 2153
€ I’ Brindellone
A real “trattoria” which is casual, fast and inexpensive. A very typical Florentine eatery, with simple and genuine flavours.
Piazza Piattellina, 10 Tel +39 055 217879
€€Burro e Acciughe
This is a great fish and seafood restaurant in the San Frediano area of Florence, south of the river. Closed Mondays.
Via dell’Orto Tel +39 055 045 72 86
€€Trattoria dell’Orto
Typically Tuscan restaurant with framed pictures and wine cabinets set over many different rooms. Serving pasta, Florentine steaks and wild boar dishes.
Via dell’Orto, 35A Tel +39 055 224148
€€€Ora d’Aria
Refined modern Tuscan cuisine by Chef Marco Stabile, themed tasting menus & wine pairings in an intimate dining room close to the Uffizi. Closed Thursdays and Sundays. Via dei Georgofili, 11R Tel +39 0552001699
€€Fedora
This pastry shop and bistro is run by the students of the International School of Hospitality in Florence. Being involved in the daily operations of Fedora is part of their academic coursework. Highly recommended by Jackie in 2025. Via Ricasoli, 21 Tel + 055 263 3155
€€Cantinetta Antinori
Located on the ground floor of Palazzo Antinori, one of the finest examples of Florentine architecture from the mid 1400’s, the entire selection of Antinori wines is available for tasting either by the bottle or by the glass, accompanied by an assortment of typical Tuscan specialties.
Piazza degli Antinori, 3 Tel +39 055 292234
€€Ristorante Frescobaldi
Here the menu is based on Tuscan food with influences from northern and southern regions of Italy. It is based around fresh, seasonal ingredients and complemented by an extensive wine list showcasing Frescobaldi wines. Closed Mondays.
Piazza della Signoria, 31 Tel +39 055 284724
Caffè Giacosa
A great meeting point for sophisticated customers looking for coffee or cocktails. It was here that the famous Negroni cocktail was invented around the year 1920. Via della Spada, 10 Tel +39 055 2776328
Caffè il Verone
One of Florence’s most picturesque panoramic terraces for coffee and drinks. It is located in the historic loggia on the top floor of the Ospedale degli Innocenti and is open to all, whether or not you have visited the museum.
Piazza della SS. Annunziata, 13 Tel +39 345 167 8267
Melaleuca
An Australian/American owned and run bakery and brunch spot on the river in Florence. No reservations are taken, open every day and closes at 4pm. Lungarno delle Grazie, 18 Tel +39 055 614 6894
La Sorbettiera
For utterly authentic and delicious ice cream, look out for the one of the four shops dotted around the city in Piazza Tasso, Piazza Santo Spirito, Piazza Santa Maria Novella and Via De’ Bardi.
Perche No
An historic ice cream parlour in the centre of Florence making delicious artisanal ice cream in the tradition way.
Via dei Tavolini, 19 Between Piazza della Signoria and the Duomo.
Gelateria della Passera
Simple, counter-serve spot offering wonderful homemade gelato in cones, cups or take-home tubs. South side of the river on Via Toscanella, 15
What to order
It may not be your first choice, but one of the traditional specialities of Florence is tripe. The “trippaio” is an old-fashioned seller of tripe from a cart on the street, and the tripe is boiled, sliced and seasoned. Otherwise, bistecca alla fiorentina is a must – a grilled T-Bone steak – and look out for fiorentini biscuits – made with almonds, sugar and a little cocoa powder.
Here you are in the centre of Chianti production – try a Chianti Classico or Chanti Colli Fiorentini or Chianti Rufina. For white wines try a Vernaccia from San Gimignano or a Montecarlo from the hills close to Lucca.
Transport
Florence has an airport which caters for domestic flights and some other European connections, but Pisa (about 1 hour by road) has a much wider selection of international flights. Florence’s main train station is at Santa Maria Novella. There is a regular bus service between Pisa and Florence and Siena and Florence.
For all train information visit www.trenitalia.com which has an English version.
Train travel in Italy is inexpensive and comfortable. Major cities are served by non-stop fast trains known as the Eurostar.
f you are making plans for wider Europe then www.raileurope.com is a useful site. Another highly recommended train travel website is Seat 61.
Italo
NTV (Nuovo Trasporto Viaggiatori) is a new private company which started operating it’s Italo high-speed trains on the Milan-Florence-Rome-Naples route in April 2012, in competition with State-owned operator Trenitalia. NTV have added new routes subsequently and are Europe’s first private high-speed train operator, with a real emphasis on customer service. Travellers should be aware that the city stations used are not always the same as those used by Trenitalia.
For help with car hire, or a chauffeur driven car or minibus in the Tuscany area, or aiport transfers and taxi services contact Marco at ABC Rental Tel +39 0577 924542 or email info@abc-rent.com. Another useful car transfer website which has been recommended by HH guests is mydaytrip which can arrange private cars to and from most European cities.