Puglia, the heel of Italy, is one of the country’s most important wine-producing regions, known for its warm Mediterranean climate, fertile soils, and long winemaking tradition. The region produces a wide variety of wines, with red wines particularly prominent, including those made from indigenous grapes such as Primitivo and Negroamaro. The hot, dry summers and abundant sunshine help the grapes develop rich flavours and ripe fruit characteristics, while coastal breezes can provide cooling influences. Historically, Puglia exported large quantities of wine in bulk, which was used to strengthen or blend wines produced elsewhere. In recent decades the region has increasingly focused on bottled, higher-quality, flavourful wines that offer excellent value, helping to build Puglia’s reputation as a destination for distinctive Italian wines. A large share of its production is sold to European markets, as well as countries such as the United States and Canada. Hikers on our Southern Italy tour will taste wines from this region, particularly when they reach Matera.

Key White Grapes of Puglia

Verdeca — Probably the region’s best-known native white grape. Fresh, citrusy and mineral, especially associated with Valle d’Itria and wines around Locorotondo and Martina Franca.

Bianco d’Alessano — A traditional Valle d’Itria variety, often blended with Verdeca. Produces delicate, aromatic, relatively light-bodied whites.

Bombino Bianco — Widely planted in southern Italy and important in northern/central Puglia. Generally produces light, fresh, high-acid wines.

Malvasia Bianca — Several Malvasia types are found in Puglia. They tend to bring floral, peachy and sometimes slightly exotic aromas.

Impigno — A lesser-known indigenous variety from the Ostuni area, typically used for fresh, aromatic white wines.

Pampanuto — A local white grape of northern Puglia, particularly associated with the Castel del Monte area.

Fiano — Although native to Campania, the white grape Fiano is also cultivated in Puglia and has become important in the region, particularly around Salento and the Valle d’Itria.

Key Red Grapes of Puglia

Primitivo — One of Puglia’s flagship grapes, especially associated with the wine-growing areas of Manduria and Gioia del Colle. Rich, ripe and powerful, often with high alcohol.

Negroamaro — A defining grape of Salento, particularly around Lecce, Brindisi and Taranto. Deeply coloured, full-bodied with notes of black cherry, herbs and spice.

Nero di Troia — The principal native red of northern Puglia, especially the Castel del Monte area. More structured and tannic than Primitivo, with dark fruit, violet and spicy character. Sometimes this is known as Uva di Troia.

Susumaniello — A distinctive variety, historically centred around Brindisi. Produces deeply coloured, fresh, fruity wines and is increasingly bottled as a varietal.

Ottavianello — A rare traditional grape of the Ostuni area. Generally produces lighter, aromatic reds and rosés.

Malvasia Nera — Several local Malvasia Nera biotypes exist in Puglia, commonly used in blends with Negroamaro and other grapes. Adds colour, fruit and perfume.

Key Wine Denominations of Puglia

Primitivo di Manduria — probably Puglia’s best-known denomination, centred on Primitivo around Manduria and Taranto. It produces rich, powerful reds, as well as a distinctive and sweet Dolce Naturale made from slightly dried grapes.

Castel del Monte — in northern Puglia, particularly around Bari and Andria. Known for Nero di Troia, as well as Bombino Nero red and rosé.

Salice Salentino — centred on Salento and strongly associated with Negroamaro, producing full-bodied red and rosé wines.

Gioia del Colle — an important denomination for Primitivo, generally producing wines with a fresher, more structured character than those from Primitivo di Manduria.

Brindisi — centred around Brindisi, producing red, rosé and white wines, with Negroamaro particularly important.

Leverano — in the province of Lecce, producing a range of wines, including those based on Negroamaro and Malvasia Nera.

Copertino — another Salento denomination, particularly associated with red wines based on Negroamaro.

Locorotondo — one of Puglia’s notable white-wine denominations, based mainly on Verdeca, Bianco d’Alessano and other local varieties.

Martina Franca — a traditional white-wine denomination using local varieties including Verdeca and Bianco d’Alessano.

Wine Tip

Puglia makes some delicious rosé wines which go by the name of “Rosato”. They are loved for their vibrant colour, refreshing character and expressive Mediterranean style. Made chiefly from the local red grape varieties Negroamaro, Primitivo and Nero di Troia, Puglian “rosatos” range from pale pink wines to deeper, more intensely coloured styles. They often combine red-fruit flavours such as strawberry, cherry and raspberry with subtle floral and herbal notes, balanced by lively acidity. They pair very well with seafood, salads, grilled vegetables and lighter Mediterranean dishes.

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How did you first come across Hedonistic Hiking?

I found Hedonistic Hiking through a Google search. After losing my husband to cancer, I realized how quickly life can change. Being healthy and strong, I wanted to travel while I could. Before he passed away, we had planned to walk around the Isle of Wight, and I still wanted to fulfill that wish. I initially looked into circumnavigating Mont Blanc but could only find hut-to-hut options that were not all-inclusive. I didn’t want to stay in huts or manage unexpected costs. Eventually, I found Hedonistic Hiking and contacted Jackie. It offered the perfect combination of excellent food, wine, and walking.

Had you done escorted group tours before?

My husband and I always travelled alone. Coming from that background, adjusting to group travel was challenging at first, but I now see the advantages of meeting new people.

How much of an experienced hiker were you on your first trip?

I was more of an avid walker and nature lover than an experienced hiker. However, in the years before joining Hedonistic Hiking, I became stronger and did more hiking, including visiting national parks here in the US, which I loved.

How do you find the dynamic of our style of small group travel?

I love spending days with newfound friends—some like me are repeat customers, but all have a common bond. I love the challenge of a great hike followed by a beautiful meal, wine, and lovely lodgings. It is a perfect day!

Have you made friends with whom you might travel in the future?

I have met many wonderful people on my trips with Hedonistic Hiking, many of whom I have walked with multiple times. It is always fun to meet new people and reconnect with others.

How do you keep fit for the hiking holidays

I go to the gym pretty much every day and walk the hills of San Francisco. I don’t do as much actual hiking as I’d like because I’m single and it can be hard to find a hiking partner.

What continues to appeal to you about travelling with Hedonistic Hiking?

I look forward to my HH trips all year round. I love the whole routine, food, wine, walking, and the wonderful people I’ve met.

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We started our ascent from the picturesque village of Drežnica at the foot of the mountain and then climbed 1,600 metres on the first day up to a cosy rifugio. The weather was kind to us: the rain and storms waited until we were safely inside the refuge with a warm fire and plenty of hot food. The only problem was that the kitchen had run out of wine (a disaster in HH terms!!) and there was a long walk in the rain to the loo!! It slept 42 but luckily there were only 3 of us as it might have been a bit too cosy! Amazingly they cooked us eggs for breakfast. The refuge manager’s mother had hiked up the previous week bringing 40 eggs, which they offered to special guests!

Our descent was more gradual as we split this over the following two days. The second refuge was much busier, being only a 2hr ascent from the valley. We had our own room (bunks!) and there was a bathroom, with hot water, just down the corridor. It was near beautiful Lake Krn which we passed en route.

Italian troops captured Monte Krn early in the war, and the surrounding mountains became the scene of fierce fighting. Soldiers faced not only enemy fire but also extreme cold, storms and avalanches, making the mountain warfare particularly harsh. On the hike we saw remains of trenches, fortifications and other discarded military weaponry. These items are a lasting reminder of the terrible human cost of the Battles of the Isonzo, where hundreds of thousands of soldiers on both sides lost their lives to the conflict. The challenges and futility of the mountain warfare and the extreme conditions were striking and thought-provoking. We couldn’t help but make comparisons as we hiked the trails for pleasure in all our modern weather-proof gear and comfortable walking boots.

Hikers on our Slovenia and Friuli tour do have the opportunity to visit the award-winning museum in Kobarid which is dedicated to the events of WW1. Our adventure was physically challenging but richly rewarding: the mountain is really an open-air museum still communicating the events which took place there over 100 years ago.

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Ingredients:

25g sea salt flakes

1 litre filtered water

500g cherry tomatoes, washed

Aromatics of your choice incl:

2 to 3 garlic cloves, peeled

1 or 2 whole chillies, red or green

1 tsp fennel seeds

A few celery sticks

2 to 3 stalks basil

Method:

To make the brine: put the salt into a small saucepan with 250ml of the water. Heat through until the salt has dissolved. Leave to cool a little then pour in the remaining water, which should bring the liquid to room temperature.

Pack the cherry tomatoes into a 1-2 litre sterilised Kilner jar, layering them with the aromatics you have chosen. Pour over the cooled brine to cover the tomatoes.

If you have a fermentation weight place on top of the tomatoes to ensure everything is below the level of the brine and fully covered. If you don’t you can pour a little water into a small freezer/ziplock bag and seal. Lay this in the jar opening which will weigh down the contents. Do not close the lid on the jar.

Leave at room temperature for 4-7 days depending on how hot the room is. You should see bubbles appearing in the jar and the brine will start to go cloudy. Once fermentation has been reached, you can seal the jar and store in the fridge for up to two weeks.

These tomatoes are bright and fizzy and complement rich, earthy flavours. We have found them to be delicious on a classic bruschetta, or paired with ricotta or goats cheeses, or added to cold pasta or grain salads to act as an instant dressing.

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Level 5 Example Tour: France and the Maritime Alps

Level 4 Example Tour: Northern Lombardy

Level 3 Example Tour: Etruscan Trails in Central Italy

Level 2 Example Tour: The Jewels of Piedmont

Level 1 Example Tour: The Palio of Siena

Victoria’s Great Ocean Walk

Tips on being well-prepared for your next Hedonistic Hike

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Have you been a keen walker your whole life? How did you become interested in hiking?

I have not been a walker all my life. When I was younger I was active doing other things such as horse riding, tennis and school based activities. My parents were extremely active and sporty but we did not hike as a family. When my children became older, and I accompanied my husband on work trips to Europe, I decided that the best way to explore a country was on foot so we began walking/hiking holidays at that time.

What are the daily exercise regimes that you follow to keep in shape for hiking? Do you exercise in group classes or alone?

I have always been an active person and have run all my life, until an injury 2 years ago stopped that. I am still hoping to return to running as it such an easy way to stay fit. I play golf 2-3 times a week which means hours of walking (although not in hiking boots!) I do a Pilates class once a week and a private strength class once a week, and have just begun a group strength class as well. I always walk at least once a week in my hiking boots, even if just for an hour.

What tips would you give to a newcomer to hiking in terms of preparing for a tour?

I certainly find that the strength classes make walking up the steep hills easier, so that is a good incentive to stick to the training. I’d encourage a new hiker to get used to walking on lots of different surfaces and to definitely practice walking in their hiking boots.

Does your nutrition regime change in preparation for a hiking holiday?

I try to eat healthily as a general rule so don’t make changes ahead of a hike. If it’s warm I think electrolytes help with your energy and hydration and I used them on my most recent hike in Corsica. I also find that magnesium tablets can help to combat problems with cramps.

Do you have any tips on useful gear which really help you?

I find that walking poles are essential for me as an aid to hiking, and I use lightweight layers of clothing which make it easy to regulate temperature. I always carry two bottles of water to ensure I am well hydrated.

So, you have reached your fifth tour with Hedonistic Hiking and have two more booked for 2027. What is it that draws you back each time?

Mike and Jackie have a wonderful formula which includes brilliant hiking itineraries, delicious food and good wines. For me as a single, older person it is an exciting but safe way to explore the countryside with like-minded people. I plan to continue doing all the most difficult hikes while I’m able to, and then there are plenty of less strenuous walks available as well. Each time I see Jackie or Mick at the start of a new tour, I feel I’m back with my hiking family again. It is always a warm and friendly welcome back to the fold. I’m hoping for many more holidays in the years ahead with Hedonistic Hiking!

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Key White Grapes from Basilicata

Malvasia — One of the historic white grapes grown in Basilicata. It can produce floral, lightly aromatic wines with notes of peach, citrus and herbs.

Moscato — Traditionally cultivated in small areas and valued for fragrant, aromatic wines with floral and stone-fruit character. Moscato di Rapolla is a well-loved local sweet wine with perfumed, honeyed flavours which is rarely found outside the region.

Greco — An ancient grape with Greek origins which appears in Basilicata as well as neighbouring regions.

Fiano — Grown in limited quantities in Basilicata and known for richer texture and flavours of pear, hazelnut, and wildflowers.

Key Red Grapes from Basilicata

Aglianico — The flagship red grape of Basilicata and one of Italy’s most respected native varieties. The best wines come from the volcanic area around Monte Vulture. It makes deeply coloured, well-structured wines with notes of dark cherry, plum and spice.

Primitivo — Found in smaller quantities in Basilicata (more famously associated with neighbouring Puglia). It generally gives fuller-bodied wines with ripe berry fruit and softer tannins. Primitivo grapes can also make interesting rosé wines.

Sangiovese — Although strongly associated with central Italy, it has long been cultivated in parts of Basilicata and sometimes appears in blends.

International varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are grown across the region and used in blends.

Top Wine Denominations in Basilicata

Aglianico del Vulture Superiore – The region’s highest classification level. Basilicata’s best-known denomination and the region’s benchmark wine. Produced around the volcanic slopes of Monte Vulture, it is based primarily on Aglianico and is known for powerful structure, dark fruit, spice and strong ageing potential.

Aglianico del Vulture – These wines follow slightly less strict production and ageing rules than the wines above and are perhaps less concentrated.

Matera – Centred around the extraordinary cave city of Matera, this denomination allows a broader range of styles, including red, white, rosé and sparkling wines from several grape varieties.

Grottino di Roccanova – A smaller denomination in southern Basilicata known for traditional red wines, often using local southern Italian grape varieties and historically linked to cave cellars.

Terre dell’Alta Val d’Agri – A limited-production denomination from the mountainous inland zone, producing mostly red wines with a cooler-climate influence.

Top Tip

If you are looking for an interesting local speciality, try Amaro Lucano. It is probably Basilicata’s most famous non-wine drink. Created in the late 19th century in Pisticci, it is a bittersweet herbal liqueur made from a secret blend of over 30 botanicals. It can be drunk neat, over ice or in spritz-style cocktails. Also look out for traditional homemade fruit and herb liqueurs (liquori casalinghi). These are still made in local villages by infusing ingredients such as wild fennel, walnuts, citrus peel, myrtle or mountain herbs. Basilicata’s mountain geography and relative isolation from the rest of Italy has helped to preserve many culinary traditions, and these local liqueurs are an important part of its heritage.

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Much has been written in recent years about the importance of gut health. It plays an important role in overall well-being because the digestive system does more than process food. It supports immune function, nutrient absorption and communication with other parts of the body, including the brain. The community of microorganisms in the gut is often called the gut microbiome. This helps maintain balance in digestion and may influence energy levels, metabolism and aspects of mood and health. Habits such as eating a varied, fibre-rich diet, staying well hydrated, getting enough sleep and regular physical activity can help to support a healthy gut. These habits can also help your health and well-being as you prepare for your next Hedonistic Hike!

What is Kombucha?

Kombucha is a fermented tea drink which people often take to support gut health. Believed to have originated in China, it is made by combining sweetened tea (usually black or green tea) with a culture of bacteria and yeast called a SCOBY (short for Symbiotic Culture of Bacteria and Yeast). During fermentation, the microorganisms consume much of the sugar and produce organic acids, along with small amounts of carbonation and compounds that give Kombucha its slightly tangy, fizzy taste. You can make your own Kombucha at home, save money on commercial brands and know exactly what the sugar content is of your drink.

How to make Kombucha at home

To begin you will need a 2 litre Kilner jar and several swing-top glass bottles. For the SCOBY you can order this online. However, if you have a friend who makes Kombucha you can ask them to split their SCOBY to get you started, alongside 200 ml of their made Kombucha, to which you can add your own ingredients.

We use:

10 g loose leaf tea
200/230 g granulated sugar (this depends on taste)
600 ml of filtered water

Mix the ingredients above in a saucepan and bring to the boil to dissolve the sugar and then leave to cool. When the tea mixture is fully cooled, strain the leaves out and pour it into the 2 litre jar. Add the SCOBY, alongside the 200 ml of made Kombucha, and fill the jar to the top with filtered water. Cover it with kitchen paper or a muslin cloth so that the mixture can breathe – do not seal it tight with the lid.

After ten days to two weeks you will be ready to bottle your first batch. Remove the SCOBY from the jar, alongside 200 ml of the made Kombucha, and then bottle the remaining liquid into the swing-top glass bottles, avoiding the dregs which may accumulate in the bottom. These bottles are ready to drink and are best stored in the fridge for longevity. At the point of bottling, some people add flavours such as ginger or elderflower syrup, but this is very much to taste.

This process needs to be repeated every ten days to two weeks. The warmer the room where the jar is stored, the faster the fermentation process will be. The SCOBY will continue to grow, so needs to be reduced by splitting every month or so. You can discard this or give it to a friend to get their Kombucha journey started! Experiment with the quantity of sugar as you make your first few bottles to achieve the perfect taste for you, but less than 200 g is not advised.

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Wine-growing in the southern region of Campania has a history stretching back more than two millennia, earning it a reputation as one of Italy’s oldest and most distinctive wine-producing areas. Benefitting from a Mediterranean climate, varied elevations and volcanic soils, Campania produces wines with notable freshness, minerality and complexity. Wine production ranges from powerful, age-worthy reds in inland hills to aromatic whites along the coast, reflecting the region’s diverse terroirs. Hikers on our Southern Italy tour start and finish in Naples and therefore have the chance to taste some of this region’s finest wines.

 

Key White Grapes from Campania

Fiano – One of southern Italy’s most highly regarded white varieties. It produces wines with floral, honeyed and tropical fruit aromas, often capable of developing complexity with bottle age.

Greco – An ancient variety believed to have Greek origins. It yields structured wines with citrus, stone fruit and mineral characteristics.

Falanghina – Widely planted throughout Campania, producing fresh, aromatic wines with notes of apple, citrus and sometimes a distinct mineral edge.

Coda di Volpe – A traditional local variety known for soft acidity and delicate flavours of pear, citrus and herbs. It is often blended but can also produce varietal wines.

Biancolella – Commonly grown on the islands of the Gulf of Naples, especially Ischia, where it produces light, fresh wines with floral and citrus notes.

Forastera – Another important island grape, particularly on Ischia, contributing freshness and subtle fruit character to local wines.

 

Key Red Grapes from Campania

Aglianico – Campania’s flagship red grape and one of Italy’s finest wine varieties. It produces deeply coloured, full-bodied wines with high tannins, firm acidity and flavours of dark berries, plum, spice, and tobacco. It is the principal grape of Taurasi, often called the “Barolo of the South.”

Piedirosso – An ancient local variety known for lighter body, soft tannins, and aromas of red cherry, violet and Mediterranean herbs. It is widely grown around the coastal and volcanic areas near Naples.

Sciascinoso (also known as Olivella) – Traditionally used in blends to add freshness, fruitiness, and colour. It produces light to medium-bodied wines with bright red fruit flavours.

 

Top Wine Denominations in Campania

Taurasi – Red wine based on the Aglianico grape. It is produced in Irpinia in the Avellino province and is widely regarded as Campania’s finest red wine appellation.

Fiano di Avellino – A white wine from Fiano grapes known for complexity, minerality and ageing potential. It is considered one of Italy’s greatest white wine denominations.

Greco di Tufo – This white wine from coastal vineyards is famous for its structure, freshness and volcanic minerality.

Aglianico del Taburno – Produced around Mount Taburno in the Benevento province, this red is often compared with Taurasi, though generally less well-known internationally.

Other important appellations to look out for include Falerno del Massico and Vesuvio – in particular look out for the sub-category Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio where wines are produced on the slopes of Mount Vesuvius. Wines from the Costa d’Amalfi denomination are produced on the steep terraced vineyards of the Amalfi Coast, and wines from the island of Ischia made from Biancolella and Forastera are also well regarded.

Wine Tip

If you’re eating a traditional Neapolitan pizza in Naples, the classic local pairing is Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio, especially the red version made largely from the Piedirosso grape. It is often considered a better pizza wine than the more famous Aglianico because it is lighter, fresher and less tannic. It’s a pairing that reflects the volcanic soils and culinary traditions of the Naples area. If you are passing through Naples, don’t miss the chance to try it!

 

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