Situated on Corsica’s east coast, facing Italy, Bastia is Corsica’s second largest city, and one of France’s busiest passenger ports. Part of its attraction lies in the sense you get that this is a lived-in city, with a charming old town and enough things to see to fill a full day. All these sights lie within three main areas – Terra Vecchia, the old town, Terra Nova, the area surrounding the Citadel, and the Vieux Port. 

Hotel des Gouverneurs
26-room boutique hotel with a wellness centre, housed in the ex-governor’s home, 500m walk from the town centre and old port.

Hotel Central Bastia
Small, charming and a more budget-sensitive option in a great location, close to the historic centre. There are 26 rooms and 7 suites, with an inner courtyard.

Best Western Bastia
Modest, functional and comfortable rooms. Well-placed for anyone arriving or departing Bastia by ferry. 

€€Chez Vincent 
At 12 rue St.Michel, Chez Vincent is best-known for its pizzas and its terrace views of the port. There’s also the option of steak and mussels. Head for sister restaurant Petit Vincent (1 rue du Dragon) lower down the Citadel slope for more fishy options.  Tel +33 4 95 31 62 50

€€€Le Pirate  
Feast on lobster tortellini and grilled John Dory straight off the boat at this fine dining restaurant, overlooking the sea at Erbalunga (20222 Brando – around 20 minutes by car from Bastia). Tel +33 4 95 33 24 20

€€Les Affranchis
6 Rue Sainte-Croix. French and Mediterranean cuisines, fab fish and seafood and with great views and friendly service.  Very close to the Hotel des Gouverneurs. 
Tel +33 4 95 32 02 32

€Raugi 
2 bis Rue du Chanoine Colombani. Established in 1937, Raugi is the place to go in Bastia for traditional Corsican flavoured ice-cream, including mandarin, fig and sweet myrtle. 
Tel +33 4 95 31 22 31

Bastia’s coastal location means that seafood, and particularly mussels, dominate, generally washed down with a glass of crisp Corsican white wine. A traditional first course is sturzapreti, large gnocchi-like dumplings made of seasoned spinach or chard, rolled into balls with brocciu cheese and baked. However, a strong mountain influence is still evident on the coast, with wild boar, charcuterie and meaty stews flavoured with forest herbs appearing on some menus and chestnut-rich cakes.

Start your evening with a pale golden amber Cap Corse aperitif, a bittersweet wine infused with fruits and spices, produced in Bastia.  Happily, Patrimonio, to the west of Bastia, is one of the most active wine producing areas of the island. Wines are from the traditional grape varieties – Vermentino for the whites and Nielluccio for the reds and rosés.

By air: International flights are available from many European capital cities to Bastia Poretta airport which is around 16km south of Bastia city centre.

By sea: This remains the most popular option, with ferries to and from Bastia from the French and Italian coast. Destinations include Toulon and Nice in France, and Genoa, Livorno, Piombino and Savona in Italy.

Travel across Corsica by train is popular. The Bastia-Ajaccio rail journey (U Trinighellu), across the mountains via Corte, is renowned for its dramatic scenery.

If you are making plans for wider Europe then www.raileurope.com is a useful site.  Another highly recommended train travel website is Seat 61.

Bergamo has a wealth of medieval, Renaissance and baroque architecture and lies just to the north east of Milan. There are two very distinct parts to Bergamo: the Città Alta (Upper Town) is the historic centre, while the Città Bassa comprises modern buildings and wide, busy streets. Bergamo was under Venetian rule for over 350 years until the arrival of Napoleon into Italy. There are architectural reminders of Venice’s long reign dotted around the town, not least the 6 km of imposing walls built to protect the upper city from enemy attacks. Its proximity to Milan makes for an easy day trip from there, but we have chosen intriguing Bergamo as the starting point for our Northern Lombardy tour. Our group will have a private guided tour of the Piazza Vecchia, Colleoni Chapel and the Civic Tower, so here we have selected some additional highlights for your visit to Bergamo. In 2023 Bergamo and neighbouring Brescia were the joint Italian Capitals of Culture.

Cagliari has been the capital city of Sardinia since Roman times and remains the island’s biggest town and busiest port, although it has a relaxed atmosphere and easy-going pace of life.  The compact old centre of Cagliari above the port, encircled by its defensive city walls, is where most visitors spend their time and is home to its major cultural attractions and  myriad bars, shops and restaurants.  A climb up either of the two 14th century Pisan towers affords spectacular views out to sea, above the rooftops and the port, and Cagliari is also home to one of Italy’s most famous botanical gardens.

Miramare Art Hotel
A small and chic city-centre hotel on Cagliari’s busy seafront street.  Some of the art on display is on sale.

Hotel Villa Fanny
A little further from the very centre of town, Hotel Villa Fanny is a boutique hotel with 19 luxury rooms and suites and a wonderful, tranquil garden.

Il Gallo Bianco
A family-run B&B close to the port and the railway station. Stylish rooms, reasonable prices and friendly service.

Hotel Regina Margherita
Business and Conference hotel well located in the heart of Cagliari – a stone’s throw from the harbour and main shopping streets.

Holiday Inn
The Holiday Inn is only five minutes drive from the airport and has a restaurant, small pool and fitness facilities. This will be our pick-up point for the Heart of Sardinia tour.  However, if you would like to see anything of Cagliari you will need to take a taxi from here (approx €20 each way) and we would encourage guests with more time to choose the centre of town for a more enjoyable stay.

€€Antico Caffe dal 1855
An institution in the town since the date over the door, this Art Deco style eatery on Piazza Costituzione has a restaurant, a wine bar, cocktail bar, tea room, patisserie and a creperie so will suit almost any appetite! Open all day every day.  Tel +39 070 658206

€€Oyster
Great for oysters, champagne and other Italian classics. Only open at lunchtimes.  Via Sardegna 30.  Tel +39 07 065 7987

€€€Dal Corsaro
A family-run fine dining restaurant with a big reputation in the town for refined dishes and efficient service.  28 Viale Regina Margherita Tel +39 070 664318.  Closed Mondays

€€Antica Cagliari
In the historic Marina district, closer to the Port, Antica Cagliari serves traditional cuisine in the cosy atmosphere of a 19th-century vaulted stone building. Mostly seafood with some meat dishes, the menu is typically Sardinian. Friendly and welcoming staff. Open every day. Via Sardegna 49  Tel +39 070 734 0198

€Dulcis Pasticceria
This fabulous pastry shop, café and wine bar is the perfect place for a coffee or tea and a taste of a delicious Sardinian pastry or two. You could also have mini burgers, pizza by the slice or sandwiches for a light lunch.  Open every day and well worth a visit. Via Baylle Tel +39 070 674043

€Caffe Libarium Nostrum
A popular spot for an aperitif, with great views, situated on the ramparts of the old city.  Via Santa Croce, 35  Tel +39 346 522 0212

Seafood is most popular in the coastal towns, with lobster being a real favourite of the locals.  Look out for fish stews and bottarga – a kind of caviar made from mullet roe. The typical carasau flat bread (also known as carta da musica), suckling pig (porceddu) cooked on an open spit and farm-raised lamb are a constant reminder of the pastoral tradition. Herbs such as wild thyme, rosemary, myrtle and juniper are used to flavour meats. The island also produces about 80% of Italy’s pecorino (sheep’s milk cheese), while the most popular goat cheese is caprino. Possibly less appealing to visitors is the infamous casumarzu, a soft creamy cheese packed with live maggots!  Pastries are pretty good in Sardinia too – often flavoured with lemon, almonds or oranges.

When it comes to wine, the best-known reds on the island are made from the Cannonau vine which go well with roasted meats. Sardinia’s only DOCG white is the Vermentino di Gallura, a crisp aromatic wine which pairs well with seafood or you might try the Vernaccia di Oristano, which is made either very dry (secco) or sweet and fortified (Liquoroso Dolce).

Cagliari is connected to many key european cities from Elmas – Mario Mameli international airport. There are half hourly shuttle buses connecting the airport to the city center in Piazza Matteotti, situated between the port and the train station, and you can also take the train from the airport to the city centre. Taxis from the airport to the centre of town should take around 15 mins and standard fares are likely to cost around €30 per journey. The main hub for local and regional buses is close to the train station. GetByBus is a useful website.

The port of Cagliari is situated in the centre of the city and faces directly onto the famous Via Roma. There are daily ferries to the mainland at Civitavecchia (Rome) and the crossing time is approximately 12 hours.

For all train information visit www.trenitalia.com which has an English version. Train travel in Italy is inexpensive and comfortable.    Major cities are served by non-stop fast trains known as the Eurostar.

If you are making plans for wider Europe then www.raileurope.com is a useful site.  Another highly recommended train travel website is Seat 61.

The Cinque Terre is the collective name for the five medieval towns on this stretch of Ligurian coast precariously constructed on and between steep cliffs plunging straight into the Mediterranean. The inaccessibility of these villages over the centuries led to skilled terracing of the land in between, so the inhabitants could cultivate vines, olives, fruit and vegetables. Until the railway line was built in 1874 locals travelled by boat or followed mule tracks from one village to the other, and today these paths are still the best way to explore and enjoy this unique area.

The walking trails of the Cinque Terre are very well marked and well trodden.  The area receives thousands of visitors each year enjoying this stunning coastline, but it is not typical of a Hedonistic Hiking walk.  Our trails are unique and researched by us in much wilder and less populated areas where, very often, we see no other hikers at all.  Our Parma, Tuscany and the Ligurian Sea tour brings us to the Ligurian coast in the pretty town of Lerici, which sits across the Gulf of Poets from the Cinque Terre villages, but is well situated for those wishing to continue on there for some self-guided walking. Italy is taking steps to limit the number of visitors to the famous Cinque Terre coast by capping numbers at 1.5 million, so make sure you book ahead on-line if this is something you plan to do. Those planning self-guided walks along this coastline should keep an eye on the Park website, as weather conditions can lead to trails being closed on occasion.

Some of the hotels listed below are known to Hedonistic Hiking, others are recommendations from people who have extended their walking tour in Italy in the Cinque Terre.

La Mala
Light and bright, this hotel has four charming rooms with beautiful views in the middle of Vernazza.

Hotel Pasquale
This 3 star hotel has 15 rooms, all with a sea view, and is located right on the beach in the oldest part of Monterosso.

Hotel Porto Roca
A 4 star built high above Monterosso, this hotel has lovely views across the sea.  It  also has a restaurant and a small spa.

La Sosta di Ottone
Perched high on the hill between Levanto and Monterosso is this tiny hotel with four suites in the village of Chiesanuova.    You will need to be travelling extremely light as there is no access by car, only on foot, but if you want real peace and quiet this could be for you.

When visiting the Cinque Terre many people choose to base themselves in Levanto at the western end and use a combination of the train or boats to get about.     Another option is to stay in Portovenere on the eastern tip, from which you can explore by boat, although the railway does not come this far.

Hotel Carla – Levanto
In the middle of Levanto but only a short walk to the sea, the Hotel Carla has 33 bright clean rooms and is close to the station if you are using the train to explore.

Hotel Paradiso – Portovenere
Slightly set apart from the bustle of the centre, this hotel has a lovely outlook across the Gulf of Poets and a good restaurant.   The rooms on the highest floors have the best views.

€€ Locanda Lorena
With its own boat service across from Portovenere, this great restaurant on the island of Palmaria is highly recommended – especially for a leisurely lunch.    There are also a few rooms.    Tel +39 0187 792370

€€ Miky Restaurant – Monterosso
Well known for its excellent fish and wood-burning oven.     Booking recommended.
Via Fegina 104.     Tel +39 0187 817608

€ L’Alta Marea – Monterosso
On the main street in the old part of town, this restaurant serves typical Ligurian fare.    Via Roma 54    Tel +39 0187 817170

€€ Gambero Rosso – Vernazza
Traditional Ligurian dishes with a modern twist.    Piazza Marconi 7.
Tel +39 0187 812265

€€ Trattoria Gianni Franzi – Vernazza
Emphasis on very traditional Ligurian dishes and cooking methods.
Piazza Marconi 5.    Tel +39 0187 821003

€€ Osteria a Cantina de Mananan – Corniglia
A small place but excellent fish and seafood pastas.    Via Fieschi 117.  Tel +39 0187 821166

€€ Cantina dello  Zio Bramante – Manarola For a good selection of locals wines and typical food.   Via Birolli 110   Tel +39 0187 920442.

€€ Marina Piccola – Manarola
This restaurant is right on the waterfront.    Via Lo Scalo 16, Tel +39 0187 920923

€€ Cappun Magru – Riomaggiore
Located in Groppo in the hills above Riomaggiore, this has spectacular food and spectacular views.    There is a tasting menu.    Tel +39 0187 920563.    Definitely worth the bus ride up!

€€ Osteria Tumelin – Levanto
Great position with outdoor seating, efficient service and delicious pesto!     Via Grillo 32    Tel +39 0187 808379.

This is a sea-food lovers paradise – plenty of fresh fish, mussels, shrimps, anchovies and calamari.    The area is also famous for its wonderful sweet basil made into pesto and served on “trofie” which is a hand-rolled short pasta.    Foccaccia, a delicious flat bread made with the local olive oil is a must along with farinata which is made with chickpea flour.

Winemaking in Liguria is a heroic activity because of the steep slopes which make modern machine methods almost impossible. Look for white wine by the name of Cinque Terre or from the Colli di Luni region a Vermentino. The rare and expensive Sciacchetrà is a sweet wine good with desserts.  This excellent article by National Geographic looks at the local life and wine culture of the Cinque Terre.

The railway which links the five villages and also Levanto connects with La Spezia at one end and Genoa at the other.   One to three trains an hour will stop along the way but we advise you to use a timetable as not all trains stop at all the villages every time.   Portovenere can be reached from La Spezia by buses running approximately every half hour from Via Chiodo.

The Consorzio Marittimo Turistico Cinque Terre Golfo dei Poeti runs the coastal boat service from March to October.

For all train information visit www.trenitalia.com which has an English version.
Train travel in Italy is inexpensive and comfortable.    Major cities are served by non-stop fast trains known as the Eurostar.

If you are making plans for wider Europe then www.raileurope.com is a useful site.  Another highly recommended train travel website is Seat 61.

Italo
NTV (Nuovo Trasporto Viaggiatori) is a new private company which started operating it’s Italo high-speed trains on the Milan-Florence-Rome-Naples route in April 2012, in competition with State-owned operator Trenitalia.  NTV have added new routes subsequently and are Europe’s first private high-speed train operator, with a real emphasis on customer service. Travellers should be aware that the city stations used are not always the same as those used by Trenitalia.

A new train route, launched in December 2022 from Austria’s national rail operator ÖBB, offers a comfortable overnight train from Munich all the way to La Spezia, also stopping in other Ligurian favourites Rapallo and Levanto.  It is known as the Nightjet and is a very relaxing way to arrive in the heart of the Cinque Terre region.

GoOpti is a car transfer service which can been booked in advance and has come recommended by many Hedonistic Hikers. It connects airports and major cities in the north of Italy (La Spezia being one of them) with eachother and fixed destinations in Austria, Croatia, Germany, Hungary, Slovakia and Slovenia. See the website for more details.  Another useful car transfer website which has been recommended by HH guests is mydaytrip which can arrange private cars to and from most European cities.

Highlights

The Uffizi

One the most famous in Europe, this art collection comprises 1,555 pieces spanning ancient Greek sculpture, Renaissance masters, and on up to 18th century Baroque painting.  A visit here it is definitely worth booking in advance. The English-speaking telephone booking centre (+39 055 294883) is open from Monday to Friday from 8.30 to 18.30 and on Saturdays from 8.30 to 12.30.   There is a booking fee and tickets can be collected and paid for on the day of the visit.

Galleria dell’Accademia

This is home to Michelangelo’s genuine statue of David, carved from one block of marble when the artist was just 29.  There are two copies of the statue on the streets of Florence but if you want to see the real thing, make an advance booking to avoid the queues.   (+39 055 294883)

Piazza del Duomo

One the most iconic Cathedrals in the whole of Italy, Florence’s Duomo is instantly recognisable from its striped marble facade, vast red dome and soaring campanile or bell-tower.  It’s breathtaking.  To see the stunning original bronze doors of the Baptistry, visit the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo.

Ponte Vecchio

Florence’s most famous bridge across the River Arno, which houses hundreds of jewellery stalls, from which views of the city and its river can be enjoyed at all times of the day, especially the sunset.

For €85 you can buy the Firenze Card which, in a period of 72 hours from the first time you use it, allows you access to all major museums, gardens and exhibitions without the need to queue or book ahead.  It can also be used on buses and trams – all you need to do is swipe the card as you embark.   It can be purchased on-line or from selected stores around the city.  It is also available as an App.

 

Local Guide

In fact, there is so much to see and do in Florence that it can be overwhelming with only a short amount of time.   For an authentic and entertaining insight into the city we highly recommend a private guided tour with Freya Middleton.    Her in-depth knowledge, enthusiasm and passion for the city will make it an unforgettable experience.   Contact Freya for her brochure and tour menu.

Where to stay

Where to eat

What to order

Transport