Key White Grapes from Lazio

Malvasia del Lazio – the most important white grape in the region which brings aromatic, floral notes and soft texture to many blends.

Trebbiano – a large family of varieties of white grape grown widely across Italy, but in Lazio you are most likely to see trebbiano toscano, or trebbiano giallo or trebbiano verde making up the local blends.

Greco – native to the Campania region but widely grown in Lazio, a grape which adds structure and complexity when blended.

Bellone – an ancient indigenous grape that thrives in volcanic soil and loves coastal breezes.

Bombino Bianco – another white grape which contributes lightness and crispness to local blends.

Key Red Grapes from Lazio

Cesanese – the standout variety, often considered Lazio’s signature red grape, capable of producing wines with spice, dark fruit and good structure.

Montepulciano – not to be confused with the Tuscan town, this key red grape adds deeper colour, softer tannins and plum-like richness to blends.

Sangiovese – this well-known red grape plays a leading role thanks to its versatility, bright acidity and red cherry flavours.

International varieties such as merlot are often used in blends.

Top Wine Denominations in Lazio

Frascati Superiore – One of the best-known whites near Rome, typically made from Malvasia and Trebbiano, offering fresh, floral and slightly nutty notes.

Cannellino di Frascati – A sweet version of Frascati, rich and honeyed, made from late-harvest grapes and enjoyed as a dessert wine.

Cesanese del Piglio – Lazio’s standout red wine, made from the Cesanese grape, with cherry, spice and earthy complexity.

Est! Est!! Est!!! di Montefiascone – A light, crisp white with citrus and floral notes, tied to a famous medieval legend.

Castelli Romani – A broad denomination covering both reds and whites from the hills southeast of Rome.

Colli Etruschi Viterbesi – Red and whites come from this area in the north of the region, close to Viterbo.

Colli della Sabina – A small, historic wine-producing area between Rieti and Rome producing red and white wines.

Wine Tip

If you are a lover of dessert wines, keep an eye out for Aleatico di Gradoli. It is a distinctive red wine from Lazio produced around the town of Gradoli near Lake Bolsena. Made primarily from the aromatic aleatico grape, it is often crafted in both dry and sweet (known as passito) styles, with the latter being especially prized. The wine is known for its intense floral and fruity bouquet, featuring notes of rose petals, ripe red berries and sometimes hints of spice. It pairs beautifully with desserts like chocolate and pastries, but can also complement aged cheeses.

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If you’ve ever found yourself standing in a state of bemusement before a shelf full of Italian wine, let me reassure you that you are not alone. I’ve been working in this corner of the wine world for twenty years, hold the top Italian wine qualification, and still sometimes have trouble making sense of it all.

One reason this shelf might seem so impenetrable is that – if you’re in a good, independent wine shop, at least – each label is the result of a unique mix of history, the law and the creativity of the winemaker. As a starting point, I would say two things: first, it does help if you have a bit of background knowledge, although this applies to enjoying wine in general. However, that is not to say that you should expect to infer everything you want to know simply by looking at the label – nobody can do that. And, second, nothing beats the help of a professional. Frequent that local independent wine shop and work with them over time to explore their range. Ah, and let’s not forget that a great winemaker does not a great label designer make.

The trick is to use the information to make a deduction about the wine’s origin, its style, and its quality. So, let’s get to it.

The Legal Requirements

The legal requirements include abv (alcohol by volume) and vessel size – easy so far. Then we have to talk about the bottler, the appellation and the vintage, and this is where things get more complicated.

The bottle must show the name and locality of the bottler. Not the winemaker: the bottler. Where this is accompanied by words like ‘Azienda Agricola’ (or ‘Az. Agr.’), it tells you that the bottler also grew the grapes and made the wine. Here we have our first marker of quality: this category of winery has control over the whole process. Other versions include Tenuta (usually for an older, larger estate), Cantina (can also buy in grapes), Fattoria (the Italian word for ‘farm’, and, in wine, commonly associated with Tuscany) or Cooperativa. There are quite a few others, as well.

Some wineries make multiple lines with different names and branding, but they must still identify themselves somewhere. Finally, industrial wineries making (usually anonymous or low quality) wines for large clients (supermarkets, big distributors, etc.) identify themselves only with an ‘ICQRF’ bottler code on the back. Next time you pick up that authentic-looking bottle in your supermarket, take a closer look…

The Appellation System

The modern appellation system was implemented in Italy in 1966. In part, it’s a form of protection for producers and consumers; and it’s also a marketing thing. Bottlers who declare the appellation must follow a strict set of rules, and these are laid out in a public document called the disciplinare. The disciplinare governs aspects like growing area and altitude, fruit yields, alcohol levels, and a thousand other details. Every appellation has its own, unique disciplinare. The appellation name (e.g. ‘Barolo’) must be identified on the bottle, and followed by a set of letters. DOCG, which stands for Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita, is the top level, and there are just 78 of these at the time of writing. The DOCG has the strictest rules and (theoretically – disclaimer below) the most prestigious wines. All DOCG wines must have a government-issued seal on the neck of the bottle. If your bottle of Barolo doesn’t have those letters (i.e., ‘Barolo DOCG’, abbreviated or written in full) and that seal, then it ain’t legit and your shop is committing fraud.

The next step is DOC (same name, minus the G – much more numerous and with less strict rules). Below that is IGT, which stands for Indicazione Geografica Tipica, and below that – now rather old-fashioned and going out of use – is VdT: Vino da Tavola. Aside from all this, winemakers can and do declassify completely, leaving just ‘Vino Rosso’ or ‘Vino Bianco’ or suchlike on their labels. But there has to be something telling you what is in the bottle.

There exists an added level of complication. The laws governing the appellation system – not the disciplinare rules of production themselves, but the laws governing their purpose, scope and enforcement – are made at European level and cover all EU states. The European-level names of DOP (Denominazione di Origine Protetta) and IGP (Indicazione Geografica Protetta) may be used in any EU state, but they have not usurped the state-level ones. This means that they are interchangeable with them, and many bottlers do elect to use the European versions (DOP, IGP) in place of the Italian ones (DOC/G, IGT).

There’s a lot to unpack here. A winemaker can make a terrible DOCG wine but a magnificent declassified Vino Rosso. Maybe they want to make a splash; maybe they don’t want to pay the appellation ‘membership fees’; maybe they just leave the wine a day less in wood than they should; maybe they tear up the rule book completely. The world is awash with Barolo DOCG which is much cheaper than it should be – be suspicious, especially in supermarkets! Meanwhile, there is plenty (#1 in my cellar) of Langhe DOC Nebbiolo, which can stand shoulder to shoulder with good Barolo DOCG at half the price. (Nebbiolo, in case you’re wondering, is the grape used in Barolo).

The Grape Varieties

Ah, yes: grapes. There’s no requirement on the label to state the grape, except where the appellation name includes it (for example, Tintilia del Molise DOCG or Roero Arneis DOCG, where Tintilia and Arneis are the grapes). But, where the grape is named as an adjunct to the appellation name (such as with my beloved Langhe DOC Nebbiolo), as a rule of thumb it usually has to contain minimum 85% of that grape. The disciplinari do dictate the minimum and maximum grapes – for example, Chianti DOCG must be at least 70% Sangiovese. How do you know this without studying a book or consulting the disciplinare in question? You don’t, but your friendly wine merchant should know at least the basics.

The Location

What about the place? It’s a similar story. Our example appellations above, Tintilia del Molise DOCG and Roero Arneis DOCG, tell us where the wine is from: Molise is a region on the Adriatic coast, while Roero is an historic zone and famous wine area of Piemonte. But what about ‘Isola dei Nuraghi IGT’, I hear you ask? Well, if you know your Sardinian history – don’t worry, you’re not expected to – then you’ll know that the Bronze Age Nuragic civilisation populated that island, and their dwellings, Nuraghi, are scattered throughout it. Fascinating and confusing in equal measure.

Sometimes an additional name is written alongside the appellation. A good example is the Piemontese appellation, Colli Tortonesi DOC. Here, instead of pursuing membership of the ‘DOCG club’, the growers decided on labelling their best wines ‘Derthona’. This is the Roman name for the city of Tortona, and its use cleverly conjours centuries of history and a sense of place, without excluding less expensive, but equally valid, bottlings. So, when you see ‘Colli Tortonesi DOC Derthona’ you’re in for a top quality white wine made entirely from the rare and prestigious Timorasso grape, grown in the best plots in the hills around the city of Tortona.

Elsewhere, this additional name can identify a sub-zone. Take Valle d’Aosta DOC, the tiny alpine region in the north west. This single, small, appellation covers a tremendous variety of winemaking and wine styles: the suffix, ‘Donnas’ identifies Nebbiolo grown on steep slopes to pergola and aged in wood; ‘Torrette’, a range of local grapes with Petit Rouge dominant; ‘Blanc de Morgex et de La Salle’ is just 22 hectares of Prié Blanc, grown to low pergola in the shadow of Mont Blanc. All wildly different, but all Valle d’Aosta DOC. Are you expected to know all this? Heck, no! Do these tell you the place or the grape? Heck, sometimes! (Torrette is neither grape nor place… it is just a made up name used, we presume, to project an image of the medieval towers which dominate the local mountainsides…)

The Suffix

Many appellations permit a ‘Riserva’ suffix, which indicates a longer ageing period. The ‘Superiore’ suffix, on the other hand, tells you that the wine was made using fruit from the best sites and with stricter vineyard protocols. Some disciplinari permit a combination of the two. For example, ‘Chianti Classico DOCG Superiore Riserva’. In some cases the ‘Superiore’ versions are also their own appellation, distinct from the wider locality. For example, Soave DOC and Soave Superiore DOC. The name ‘Classico’, meanwhile, identifies the historic region of production, and are usually their own appellation (‘Chianti DOCG’ vs ‘Chianti Classico DOCG’ or ‘Valpolicella DOC’ vs ‘Valpolicella Classico DOC’).

A small handful of appellations – Barolo DOCG, Barbaresco DOCG, Chianti Classico DOCG and Franciacorta DOCG among them – contain named villages (e.g. La Morra) or vineyards (referred to as MGA’s and UGA’s). These usually identify a combination of a specific geology and wine style, together with historical ownership. For example, ‘Barolo DOCG Bussia’, where ‘Bussia’ is the MGA. Within Barolo, specifically, some MGA’s further contain small parcels of vines whose growers can trace historical ownership. These are referred to as ‘Vigna’, belong only to a single producer, and may be named on the bottle – for example Prunotto’s ‘Barolo DOCG Bussia Riserva Vigna Colonello’. We are really getting into the weeds here, and it is worth noting that the most significant driver of quality is the winery, not the vineyard.

The Vintage

The vintage must be written on the label when the grape is from a single harvest. In most cases, including fruit from across multiple harvests means declassifying to Vino Rosso or Vino Bianco. One exception is classic method sparkling wine, where multiple harvests are often combined. In this case, the month and year of dégorgement is often included, but this is not obligatory. That reminds me – Prosecco, which is refermented in the tank, not the bottle, may also declare a single vintage. These ‘Millesimato’ wines are regarded as the best quality. And while we’re on Prosecco, since we drink so much of it these days, the best sites are the steep hillsides called ‘Rive’, and the most famous site of all is ‘Cartizze’. Both names may appear on your bottle and are a big driver of quality and price.

All the above are legal requirements. Other identifiers are dictated by the rules governing the production of a particular wine (Chianti Classico’s handsome black rooster is the famous example); some by the organisations or certifications to which the grower belongs (‘Vignaioli Indipendenti’, ‘Demeter’ biodynamic, ‘Vigne vecchie’ to identify old vines, and a thousand others). The ‘creative’ names used to distinguish different cuvées are at the whim of the winemaker, cutting through the jargon and giving you a very helpful handle.

The Conclusion

Where does all this leave us? There is duality in everything to do with Italian wine. It is simultaneously simple and complicated. It is banal and fascinating. It is the ancient and the modern. It commands a lifetime of study, if you let it, but can be enjoyed in a single evening.

I’ll leave you with some tips on choosing a good bottle. First, use your friendly local wine merchant. If they’re not friendly or don’t know their stuff, find another. If you do find yourself in the supermarket, look for the tell-tale indicators I’ve listed above. Price is a firm indicator of quality, but not the only one. Let the appellation guide, but not dictate. Be adventurous and drink a lot of wine – you’ll learn a lot and have fun doing it. Read around the subject. Life’s too short to drink lousy wine. And if you ever need a hand choosing, by all means drop me a line and I’ll be happy to help.

For more information, you can contact James directly on james@travelandwine.co.uk

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Key White Grapes from Abruzzo

Trebbiano d’Abruzzo – Historically the most planted white grape and the backbone of Trebbiano d’Abruzzo. At its best, it shows crisp acidity with flavours of lemon, green apple and almond, and a subtle mineral edge. Quality ranges from simple and fresh to surprisingly complex, age-worthy examples.

Pecorino – The region’s modern success story. Highly aromatic with citrus and saline notes, plus naturally high acidity. It makes vibrant, structured wines that pair beautifully with seafood. It was considered practically extinct by the mid-20th century, but it was rediscovered in the 1980s and subsequently revived.

Passerina – Fresh, light and lively. Expect delicate citrus, pear and floral tones. Often made in an easy-drinking style, though some producers are elevating it with more texture.

Cococciola – Less common but increasingly appreciated. Typically crisp and clean with gentle fruit and refreshing acidity.

Key Red Grapes from Abruzzo

Montepulciano – This is the undisputed star of the region. It is the backbone of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo and also used for the lighter Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo. It produces deeply colored wines with dark cherry, plum and spice flavours, and firm tannins. Styles range from easy-drinking to powerful, age-worthy examples, especially from the Colline Teramane zone. Not to be confused with Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, which hails from Tuscany!

Sangiovese – Planted in smaller amounts compared to Montepulciano. It is often blended but can appear on its own, offering brighter acidity and red-fruit character.

International varieties are grown in limited quantities, typically used for blends to soften structure or add plush fruit, and these include Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Top Wine Denominations in Abruzzo

Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane – The region’s top-tier designation. The vineyards are planted in the Teramo hills in northern Abruzzo and there are stricter production rules and longer ageing periods that the more simply named Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. These wines are well structured, age-worthy and refined.

Montepulciano d’Abruzzo – The flagship denomination which must be made from at least 85% Montepulciano. These are deeply colored reds with dark fruit, spice and firm structure. Styles range from everyday drinking to the more powerful Riserva bottlings.

Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo – This is Abruzzo’s distinctive rosé made primarily from Montepulciano grapes. Its name means “cherry-like” and this is also a good description of the colour. In terms of flavour it is fresh but often more structured than typical rosé. See more on this below.

Trebbiano d’Abruzzo – The region’s traditional white denomination, making crisp, citrus-driven wines, with top examples showing complexity and ageing potential.

Abruzzo Pecorino – This denomination is becoming increasingly important for premium white production, and the wines are aromatic with saline and herbal notes.

Wine Tip

It is a mistake to think of Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo as “just a rosé.” Traditionally, it was often consumed before the region’s Montepulciano reds were ready to drink. Because it is made from the dark-skinned Montepulciano grape it has a deeper cherry colour, stronger fruit flavours and more body than many pale rosés like those from Provence. The result is something closer to a light red wine, while still keeping the freshness of rosé. These wines are usually medium-bodied and more robust than typical rosés because the grape skins release more colour and flavour during a short maceration. People who enjoy more character, stronger fruit and food-friendly wines often find Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo more interesting than lighter rosés.

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Key White Grapes from Umbria

Grechetto – One of the most important native white grapes in the region. It produces structured, textured wines and is frequently used in Orvieto and other Umbrian whites.

Trebbiano Toscano – In Umbria this is sometimes known as Procanico and is part of the large Trebbiano family, one of the most popular and oldest known white grape varieties in Italy.

Verdello – Though not widely known outside Umbria and Tuscany, this indigenous white grape is appreciated by winemakers for its blending potential and contribution to the crisp, lively white wines of this central part of Italy.

International varieties such as chardonnay, pinot bianco and sauvignon are also planted across Umbria.

Key Red Grapes from Umbria

Sagrantino – This is perhaps the most emblematic red grape of Umbria, cultivated in the area around the village of Montefalco. It is known for very strong tannins, deep colour and great ageing potential.

Sangiovese – While Sangiovese is widespread in Tuscany, it’s also very important to the wines of Umbria. It is used both pure and in local blends.

Ciliegiolo and Canaiolo – These are two indigenous red grapes which also thrive in Tuscany and are often used in blends.

International varieties are also planted across the region, examples being merlot, cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc.

Top Wine Denominations in Umbria

Sagrantino di Montefalco – The flagship red wine of Umbria, made with 100% of the native sagrantino grape. It is an intense drinking experience, rich with strong tannins and has a minimum ageing period of 30 months before release. It also comes in a sweet passito version. The village of Montefalco sits right in the heart of the region.

Torgiano Rosso Riserva – A second hugely important red wine from the Torgiano area. This is made with at least 70% sangiovese grapes and has a minimum ageing period of 36 months before being released. This elegant and structured wine has only a small annual production.

Orvieto – Probably the most famous Umbrian white wine, it is made around the town of Orvieto on the Umbria/Lazio border. Blended from the local grapes grechetto, trebbiano, verdello and malvasia. It is a crisp, mineral and aromatic, easy-drinking wine.

Colli del Trasimeno – Vineyards planted in the beautiful hills between Lake Trasimeno and Perugia produce reds with merlot, cabernet sauvignon and sangiovese grapes, and whites made with blends of native and international varieties.

Wine Tip

In times gone by Orvieto’s wines were known for being sweet and golden. The story goes that artist Luca Signorelli, who was commissioned to fresco the San Brizio chapel in Orvieto’s celebrated Duomo, asked for an unlimited supply of local wine as part of his remuneration. Over time, tastes have changed and today Orvieto’s white wines are generally crisp, light and dry. However, some producers still make the semi-sweet Orvieto abboccato style, as well as fully-sweet dessert wines, such as Barberani’s delicious Calcaia. The area around Orvieto is influenced by two large lakes, the volcanic Lake Bolsena and Lake Corbara formed by the damming of the Tiber River. The result of all this water is that vines here are affected by Botrytis cinerea, otherwise known as Noble Rot. Noble Rot punctures the grape skins, allowing the water inside to evaporate. This shrivels the grapes and concentrates sugars, acids and flavours, creating an extremely sweet yet balanced juice. The resulting wine is lusciously rich, smooth and silky.

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Key White Grapes from Tuscany

Vernaccia – The region’s most famous native white grape, best known for Vernaccia di San Gimignano. It produces crisp, mineral-driven wines with notes of citrus, almond and herbs.

Trebbiano Toscano – One of Italy’s most widely planted white varieties, often used in blends. It yields light, fresh wines with subtle fruit and floral notes and is also used in the production of Vin Santo, Tuscany’s traditional dessert wine.

Malvasia del Chianti – A member of the huge Malvasia family, this grape is commonly blended with Trebbiano for both dry and sweet wines, especially Vin Santo.

Vermentino – Grown mainly along the Tuscan Mediterranean coast, this aromatic grape produces lively, fresh wines which complement the local seafood.

Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc are two international varieties that have found success in Tuscany, particularly in Super Tuscan white blends.

Key Red Grapes from Tuscany

Sangiovese – The dominant and most important red grape of Tuscany, forming the backbone of many of its most famous wines. It has ancient origins and expresses itself in many different ways from lightly fruity if vinified in steel, to spicy and robust with great ageing potential, if matured in oak.

Canaiolo Nero – Another historic variety used in the traditional Chianti blend to soften tannins and add fruitiness and colour.

Ciliegiolo – The grape’s name comes from the Italian word for cherry, a fruit which Ciliegiolo wines resemble both in colour and aroma. It is thought to have come to Tuscany via pilgrims returning from Santiago de Compostela in Spain.

Colorino – Slightly more obscure than the grapes above, this is often used in small amounts for its deep colour and structure as a blending grape; it also enhances the longevity of blends.

International varieties including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah thrive in Tuscany and are used in the Super Tuscan wines described below.

Top Wine Denominations in Tuscany

Chianti – The largest and most historic denomination, encompassing much of central Tuscany. Wines are primarily made from Sangiovese, offering bright acidity and red fruit flavours. This area is divided into 7 subzones: Chianti Colli Senesi, Chianti Colli Fiorentini, Chianti Colli Aretini, Chianti Colli Pisane, Chianti Montalbano, Chianti Montespertoli and Chianti Rufina.

Chianti Classico – The historic heartland of Chianti between Florence and Siena, with bottles from this zone bearing the symbol of the Gallo Nero (Black Rooster). These wines tend to be more structured and complex than basic Chianti.

Brunello di Montalcino – One of Italy’s finest reds, made exclusively from Sangiovese (locally called Sangiovese Grosso or Brunello) and aged extensively for power, depth and longevity.

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano – Another classic Sangiovese-based wine (the grape is known locally as Prugnolo Gentile), elegant and balanced, with a long history of noble production.

Morellino di Scansano – Produced in the coastal Maremma region, these wines are softer and fruitier expressions of Sangiovese, known locally as Morellino.

Carmignano – A small but historic area west of Florence where Sangiovese is blended with Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, a practice dating back centuries.

Vernaccia di San Gimignano – Tuscany’s flagship white wine denomination, known for crisp, mineral-driven wines.

Wine Tip

We often hear the term “Super Tuscan” in relation to this region. It covers wines made with blends of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and other international varieties. These wines emerged in the late 20th century, breaking away from traditional Italian wine regulations. Many were created by winemakers around Bolgheri close to the Tuscan coast. Their aim was to produce more expressive, world-class wines than the rigid local laws allowed. Because they didn’t conform to official regulations, they were originally classified as simple “Vino da Tavola” (table wine) despite their high quality. Over time, the excellence of these experimental wines—like Sassicaia, Tignanello, and Ornellaia—earned international acclaim and commanded phenomenal prices. Combining traditional and modern winemaking techniques, these innovative winemakers continue to produce powerful, elegant and age-worthy wines.

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Key White Grapes from Emilia-Romagna

Albana – A historic native grape of Romagna, and the first Italian white to earn DOCG status. It produces wines ranging from dry and crisp to rich, sweet passito versions with honeyed, apricot notes.

Pignoletto – Another name for the Grechetto Gentile grape, this is grown in the hills around Bologna, making both still and sparkling wines. Known for its floral, citrusy character and growing reputation for quality.

Trebbiano Romagnolo – Widely planted and versatile, often yielding light, fresh whites for everyday drinking, and sometimes used in blends.

Malvasia di Candia Aromatica – An aromatic variety producing perfumed wines, either dry or lightly sparkling, often with notes of peach and spice.

International varieties such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio are widely cultivated in the region.

Key Red Grapes from Emilia-Romagna

Lambrusco – A family of native varieties (such as Lambrusco di Sorbara, Grasparossa di Castelvetro, Salamino di Santa Croce, Maestri, Marani). These are the backbone of Emilia’s famous sparkling reds, which range from light and floral to dark, rich, and tannic. This grape became widely known abroad in the 1970s–80s, but mainly in its sweet, inexpensive versions which shaped an unserious image of the wine. Today Lambrusco is freeing itself from this outdated reputation, not least because it pairs well with the rich, meaty, savoury dishes of the region.

Sangiovese di Romagna – This is the dominant red grape in the Romagna half of the region. It produces a wide spectrum of wines, from fresh and fruity everyday reds to more structured, age-worthy Riserva styles.

Ancellotta – A native grape often used for blending, adding deep colour and body, especially to Lambrusco wines.

Other Italian grapes such as Barbera and Bonarda are widely grown in this region, as well as international varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

Top Wine Denominations in Emilia-Romagna

Albana di Romagna – This was the first Italian white to gain DOCG status, and is made from Albana in dry, sweet, and passito styles.

Colli Bolognesi Classico Pignoletto – Centered around Bologna’s hills, showcasing Pignoletto as fresh, mineral still or sparkling wines.

In the west of the region the following denominations are worthy of a look: Lambrusco di Sorbara which are the lightest, most floral style of Lambrusco, from near Modena, Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro which makes the richer, darker, more tannic Lambrusco and Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce which offers a balanced style, fruity yet structured. Also look out for the denominations of Colli Piacentini (the hills of Piacenza), Colli di Parma (the hills around Parma) and the Colli Bolognesi (the hills of Bologna).

In the east of the region, try red wines from the Sangiovese di Romagna denomination and whites from Trebbiano di Romagna denomination.

Wine Tip

For something truly unique, try Albana di Romagna Passito, a golden, honeyed dessert wine that has been made in the area for centuries. The wine is primarily made from Albana grapes. Traditionally, the grapes were dried in special drying houses, but many producers now allow the grapes to dry on the vine, sometimes developing “noble rot” which enhances the wine’s complexity. The minimum aging period for Romagna Albana Passito is 10 months, while the Riserva version requires at least 13 months. It pairs excellently with sweet tarts, almond cakes and blue cheeses, and we usually enjoy it when we arrive in Ravenna at the end of our tour.

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Key White Grapes from Liguria

Vermentino – This is the most important white variety in Liguria and is a grape which loves the sea. It produces fresh, aromatic wines which pair brilliantly with fish and seafood. The same grape thrives on the island of Sardinia.

Pigato – Genetically similar to Vermentino, but considered a distinct local clone and found mainly in western Liguria. The grapes have a speckled skin.

Albarola – This local white grape is used mainly in blends, to add acidity and freshness to the wines.

Bosco – The grape thrives in the dry, hilly terrain of the Cinque Terre, but is rarely used pure. It is mainly added to Liguria’s other white grapes to give body and complexity.

Key Red Grapes from Liguria

Rossese – Grown mainly in Riviera Ligure di Ponente, especially around Dolceacqua, this grape makes elegant, aromatic reds with flavours of berries and herbs

Ormeasco – This is the Ligurian name for Dolcetto, but it has adapted to the local terroir to make spicy more structured wines

Granaccia – This is the local name for Grenache. It is cultivated in small quantities and is used in blends to add body and warmth.

Top Wine Denominations in Liguria

Riviera Ligure di Ponente – This covers much of western Liguria where Vermentino, Pigato and Rossese vines are grown.

Rossese di Dolceacqua – This covers the far western tip of the territory, producing elegant and age-worthy reds

Ormeasco di Pornassio – This covers red wines made from Ormeasco from mountain vineyards at high altitude

Colli di Luni – This covers eastern Liguria with mostly Vermentino whites and some Sangiovese-based reds. Sangiovese is the great Tuscan red grape.

Cinque Terre – Tiny, iconic coastal vineyards near the sea with wines made from Bosco, Albarola and Vermentino.

Wine Tip

If you find yourself in Liguria, look out for a famous passito-style sweet wine known by the name of Sciacchetrà. This wine is made in limited quantities and is deeply tied to the identity and history of the Cinque Terre, with the winemaking traditions passed down through generations. It is made from the native Bosco, Albarola, and Vermentino varieties. The harvested grapes are dried on straw mats in well-ventilated rooms for several weeks to concentrate their natural sweetness and flavours before fermentation. After pressing, the wine ferments spontaneously and very slowly in stainless steel tanks for about a year. Further ageing takes place in wooden casks. The wine is celebrated for its complex notes of honey, dried fruit and nuts and its characteristic salty, mineral finish. It is usually sold in tall, narrow bottles and is difficult to find outside the region.

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Key White Grapes from the Aosta Valley

Petite Arvine – Also grown in Switzerland but considered native in Aosta. This grape produces complex, mineral-driven wines with good ageing potential.

Prié Blanc – This grape thrives in the highest-altitude vineyards in Europe, some up to 1,200 m above sea level. It makes a crisp, fresh, easy-drinking wine and some producers are experimenting with sparkling wines.

Nus Malvoisie – This is the name given to the Pinot Grigio grape variety when it is cultivated in the Nus wine-growing district, an area due east of the town of Aosta.

International varieties such as Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco are also cultivated.

Key Red Grapes from the Aosta Valley

Petit Rouge – In terms of yield and quality, this is the most widespread and cultivated native red grape variety in the Aosta Valley.

Fumin – A dark-skinned grape producing structured, smoky wines with aging potential. It is often used in blends, but increasingly vinified as a single varietal.

Cornalin – Makes deeply coloured, aromatic reds with wild berry and spice notes.

Mayolet – Rare and delicate variety, usually blended with Petit Rouge. It is a difficult grape to grow and diced with extinction in the last century.

Vien de Nus – Grown around the town of Nus, the grape is typically used in blends to bring finesse and floral aromas.

Other red varieties such as Gamay, Merlot, Nebbiolo and Syrah are also cultivated.

Top Wine Denominations in the Aosta Valley

Valle d’Aosta – This appellation covers most of the wines produced in the Aosta Valley region, including red, white, and rosé wines made from both local and international grape varieties.

Torrette – This appellation is reserved for red wines made from a blend of Petit Rouge, Fumin, and Mayolet grapes. These wines tend to be full-bodied with notes of dark fruit and spice.

Blanc de Morgex et de La Salle – This appellation is reserved for white wines made from the Prié Blanc grape variety. These wines are typically crisp and refreshing with notes of citrus and minerality.

Enfer d’Arvier – This appellation is reserved for red wines made from the Petit Rouge grape variety grown in the commune of Arvier. These wines tend to be lighter-bodied with notes of red fruit and earthy undertones.

Nus Malvoisie – This appellation is reserved for white wines made from the Malvoisie grape variety grown in the commune of Nus. These wines tend to be rich and complex with notes of honey, apricot, and floral aromas.

Wine Tip

If you are in the Aosta region then something to look out for is an Ice Wine by the name of Chaudelune, from the excellent regional co-operative, Cave Mont Blanc. It is made from 100% Prié Blanc in the area around Morgex. The grapes are harvested in late summer, with a small number being left unpicked to dry out on the vine. These are the Chaudelune grapes. In losing water, the concentration of sugars and flavour compounds increases. The final harvest eventually happens at night under a full moon, usually in December. At this altitude, temperatures drop well below zero, and the water in the grapes freezes.

The pickers take the grapes directly to the winery, and begin crushing at first light. Because the water in the grapes stays locked inside as ice, the run-off juice is rich in sugars, acids and flavour compounds. Vinification happens in five very small botti (barrels), each made of a different local wood, and this is the entire production of Chaudelune. The five wines ferment and then mature in their respective barrels for 12 months, each finishing with a distinct character and flavour. The oenologist decides the final blend at bottling time. This sweet wine has a beautiful copper colour and delicate flavours of apricot and bittersweet toffee apple. It pairs excellently with blue cheese.

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Key White Grapes from Piedmont

Arneis – The key white grape of Roero, offering floral and stone fruit aromas.

Cortese – The grape of Gavi making crisp, citrusy, and mineral-driven wines.

Favorita – this grape is a close relative of Vermentino which grows well in Liguria and Sardinia and produces light, fresh wines with citrus, pear and herbal notes.

Erbaluce – Found mostly in northern Piedmont, especially in Caluso north of Turin.

Moscato Bianco – One of the most traditional and iconic grapes in the region. Although grown all over Italy, it adapted exceptionally well to the hills of Asti, leading to the fame of Moscato d’Asti and Asti Spumante.

Key Red Grapes from Piedmont

Nebbiolo – The star of Piedmont, used in the wines of Barolo and Barbaresco. Produces powerful, long-lived wines with high tannins and acidity.

Barbera – More widely planted than Nebbiolo, wines from Barbera d’Asti and Barbera d’Alba are juicy, with vibrant acidity and lower tannins.

Dolcetto – Lighter and fruitier than Nebbiolo and Barbera, this grape is popular in Dolcetto d’Alba, Dolcetto di Dogliani, and Dolcetto di Ovada.

Freisa – One of Piedmont’s oldest varieties, this grape produces spicy, tannic reds, often with a slight fizz.

Top Wine Denominations in Piedmont

Barolo – “The Wine of Kings and the King of Wine”. This is a wine of remarkable structure, well suited to ageing and made only of Nebbiolo grapes. Must be aged for at least 3 years before release.

Barbaresco – Also made with 100% Nebbiolo grapes, with similar qualities to the Barolo, these wines are aged a minimum of 2 years.

Barbera d’Asti & Barbera del Monferrato Superiore – Fruity, vibrant and richly drinkable, elegant reds

Dolcetto – Three provinces are particularly highly prized: Diano d’Alba, Dogliani and Ovada. These are fruity, approachable reds with violet or ruby-red colour.

Gattinara & Ghemme – Nebbiolo-based reds from northern Piedmont with great ageing potential. Hidden gems for Nebbiolo lovers.

Roero – For both Nebbiolo reds and Arneis whites, which are aromatic wines with delicate floral and peachy aromas.

Gavi – Crisp, mineral white wines made from the Cortese grape. Best examples come from Gavi and its surrounding villages.

Asti and Moscato d’Asti – Sweet sparkling wine made from Moscato Bianco, including Asti Spumante.

Erbaluce di Caluso – Northern Piedmont white, often made as dry, sparkling, or passito sweet wines.

Wine Tip

If you are travelling in Piedmont then head for the tiny village of Pollenzo. This is home to Italy’s University of Gastronomic Sciences and, within this 19th century complex, you’ll find the “Banca del Vino”. Literally translated as The Wine Bank, this unique project came to life to curate a comprehensive library of Italian wine.

Founded by Carlo Petrini of the global Slow Food movement, the Wine Bank’s aim is to create a reference point for quality Italian wine from all over the country, to improve its global image and to preserve examples of the best bottles. Petrini knew that some winemakers did not have space to store their bottles on-site while the ageing process took place and often sent them to market before they reached optimum maturation. In the Wine Bank the wines have time to reach their full potential. Emphasis is given to winemakers who use traditional techniques, respect the environment and protect the incredible biodiversity of Italy’s different grape varieties. There are more than 100,000 bottles here from around 300 different producers. We visit the Banca del Vino on our Jewels of Piedmont tour.

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Key White Grapes from Lombardy

Trebbiano di Lugana – From the southern side of Lake Garda this white grape produces floral, citrusy and mineral wines with good ageing potential. Also referred to as Trebbiano di Soave.

Riesling Italico – This white grape is popular in Oltrepò Pavese producing spumante and light, fragrant wines.

Erbamat – A rare white grape that battled extinction and is now allowed in small quantities in the Franciacorta sparkling wines to enhance freshness.

International varieties such as Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco and Pinot Grigio are widely grown in the region.

Key Red Grapes from Lombardy

Nebbiolo – It is known in this region by the name Chiavennasca. It has a similar profile to the Nebbiolo from Piedmont, and the wines from here can have great ageing potential.

Croatina – Grown mostly in the region known as Oltrepò Pavese, these grapes have a deep colour, robust body and a dark fruit flavour. It is often referred to locally as Bonarda.

Uva Rara – This red grape owes its name to its sparse bunches of grapes. It is usually blended with other varietals such as Barbera and Croatina.

Rossola Nera – Rossola Nera is a little-known red grape grown almost exclusively in the Valtellina. The grapes ripen to a pinkish-red and add deep colour when blended with its more famous parent, Nebbiolo/Chiavennasca.

Many non-native grapes thrive here, including Pinot Nero, Barbera, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Top Wine Denominations in Lombardy

Franciacorta – In the centre of Lombardy, close to the shores of Lake Iseo. This is Italy’s home of classic method premier sparkling wines, made from Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco and Pinot Nero.

Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico – In the south of the region towards Pavia, the sparkling wines from this zone are highly regarded.

Valtellina Superiore – The mountainous territory in the north makes elegant red wines from the Chiavennasca grapes.

Sforzato di Valtellina – The Chiavennasca grape again used to make an appassimento-style red wine. The grapes are dried before pressing producing a rich long-lived wine which goes perfectly with the world’s great cheeses.

Lugana – Close to Lake Garda this denomination makes fresh, dry, easy-drinking white wines.

Wine Tip

If you are tasting sparkling wines in Franciacorta, you may come across the name Satèn. This sparkling wine style is known for its soft, silky texture and delicate profile, often described as having a “satin” quality. It’s made exclusively from Chardonnay grapes using the traditional “metodo classico” (bottle fermentation) and is characterised by a lower pressure and therefore fewer bubbles compared to other Franciacorta styles. It is similar to the French Crémant.

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